Woollybear Tiger Moth Caterpillars

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fuzzy woollybear caterpillar of the Tiger Moth

Garden/ great tiger moth caterpillar

Woollybear Caterpillars Common Right Now

Woollybear caterpillars of the Tiger moth have been a common sight lately in the Central Texas area. These insects are native to the United States and are sometimes called “woollybear caterpillars”. “Woollybear caterpillar” is a more general term that refers to various species of caterpillars that are densely covered in hairs, called setae, and tend to wander.

Common Color Variations

While these caterpillars can be highly variable for individual species, the common ones seen lately are woollybear (Isabella tiger moth), saltmarsh caterpillar (saltmarsh moth), and garden tiger moth caterpillar, also known as the great tiger moth caterpillar.  Woollybear caterpillars are usually black on each end with brown in the middle. Saltmarsh caterpillars are variable and can be a creamy yellow to brown to black in color.  Garden/ great tiger moth caterpillars tend to be black on the top part of the body and brown on the bottom.

tan color saltmarsh caterpillar of the tiger moth

Saltmarsh caterpillar

Are They Pests?

All three of these caterpillars feed on a wide variety of herbaceous and woody plants, but only sometimes considered to be pests when they feed on field crops.

Tiger moths have a complete life cycle with four life stages- egg, larva, pupa, adult.  Eggs are laid in clusters on the leaves of host plants.  Larvae go through several instars before they pupate in soil.  Larvae tend to actively disperse and may be seen in groups moving over turf, roads, sidewalks, or other locations. Adults usually emerge in the spring to mate and begin the cycle again.  Moths can be active year-round in South Texas, but for most parts of Texas, larvae overwinter in the last larval instar in protected locations.

For more information or help with identification, contact Wizzie Brown, Texas AgriLife Extension Service Program Specialist at 512.854.9600.

This work is supported in part by the Crop Protection and Pest Management, Extension Implementation Program [award no. 2021- 70006-35347/project accession no. 1027036] from the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) National Institute of Food and Agriculture.

Additional Resources

About Wizzie

Wizzie Brown
Wizzie Brown
County Extension Program Specialist – Integrated Pest Management
Email:EBrown@ag.tamu.edu

Wizzie has been with Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Service since 2002 and has been playing with insects since she was a toddler. She is an Extension Program Specialist with the Integrated Pest Management (IPM) program. Wizzie holds a B.S. in entomology from The Ohio State University and a M.S. in entomology from Texas A&M University. The integrated pest management program provides identification, biological and management information to whomever needs help. Wizzie’s research focuses on imported fire ants, including community wide fire ant management. Wizzie also is happy to provide programs to area groups on a variety of arthropod-related topics. You can find insect and other arthropod information on Wizzie’s blog.

What’s Happening in Austin’s December Vegetable Garden

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December Vegetable Garden Checklist by Paula Wolfel

Broccoli plant that should be planted as part of your December vegetable garden checklist

Broccoli growing next to a basil plant that is holding on from the summer garden.

The short lived cold front that passed through a few weeks ago definitely teased Austinites.  My basil plants took a beating and my summer squash, cucumbers, and tomatoes that were already struggling from the drought did not survive. But my eggplant and peppers are still going strong, so I face the struggle of every Austin gardener: when do you call it quits and move on to the next season!?  Hopefully by now you have your brassicas, root vegetables, and leafy greens planted and you are preparing your garden for the impending cold.

Let’s Talk Brassicas

Brassica vegetables are part of the genus Brassicaceae, or mustard family. They are also knowns as the cruciferous vegetables, or Cruciferae, meaning “cross-bearing,” describing the four petals of mustard flowers, which resemble a cross. They are also commonly referred to as cole crops. The family contains over 4,000 species. Many of the members of the brassica family originated from wild cabbage and evolved over thousands of years.

The brassicas that grow in the Austin garden are broccoli, Brussel sprouts, cabbage, Chinese cabbage, cauliflower, turnips, radish, kohlrabi, kale, bok choy, collard greens, watercress, arugula, mustard greens, and nasturtium. If you are trying these crops out for the first time, the leafy members and broccoli are the easiest to grow and will give repeated harvests. Brussel sprouts and cauliflower are the hardest to grow. You’ll find more success by growing or purchasing transplants rather than direct seeding into your garden. This mostly has to do with soil temperature – they germinate better in cooler soils. They do best in full sunlight and in soil with lots of organic material. Pay attention to spacing requirements for any brassica not grown strickly for greens. They grow well alongside onions, leeks, garlic, carrots, beets, lettuce, arugula, spinach, marigolds, borage, nasturtium, thyme, sage, oregano, and chives.

December Vegetable Garden Checklist

Enjoy the cooler weather with these jobs you can do in your December vegetable garden:

FERTILIZE
  • Continue to feed vegetables with fish emulsion or other water-soluble fertilizers every two weeks.
WATER
  • Irrigate only if the soil is dry a few inches below the surface or in newly established seedbeds. We have been lucky with some good rain this fall.  So continue to keep an eye on the weather forecast and remember, your plants prefer rain water.
SOIL
  • If you chose not to have a winter garden, continue to use mulch to protect your soil and keep it healthy for the spring.
WHAT TO PLANT
  • Garden bed with brassica plants

    An early-December Austin brassica garden

    Seed or transplant hardy winter greens into the vegetable garden and be prepared to protect during a frost.

  • Grow indoors, seedlings of broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, bok choy, mustard, chard, or other greens so you will have a continual supply of transplants for setting out in January and February. Plan accordingly because it takes 5-6 weeks to reach transplant size.
  • You may also consider starting your tomatoes indoors so they are ready to transplant early to mid-March.
  • Plant cool season herbs in place of your basil, such as thyme, oregano, sage, chives, parsley, and cilantro.

Seeds

  • Greens, cool season (all month)
  • Radishes (all month)

Transplants

  • Asian Greens (all month)
  • Lettuce (all month)
  • Spinach (all month)

Seeds or Transplants:

  • Asian Greens (all month)
  • Lettuce (all month)
  • Spinach (all month)
DISEASES AND PESTS TO LOOK FOR
Green plant showing insect damage, learn how to treat in the December Vegetable Gardening Checklist

Cabbage looper holes and leaf miner damage

  • Cabbage loopers are the most common pest this time of year. They are found on all members of the brassica family. You can keep row covers on your plants to prevent cabbage loopers or treat with Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis).
  • Aphids, snails/slugs, and leaf miners are also present in the garden.
MAINTENANCE
  • Keep up with weeds while they are young and before they have a chance to put down roots.
  • Take advantage of mild winter days to tidy up your shed and greenhouse. Disconnect hoses, and put away tools before cold weather arrives.
  • Pull or cut down weeds before the go to seed.
  • Keep an eye on the forecast and have your frost cover ready for when temperatures dip.
HARVEST
  • Enjoy a supply of fresh salad greens by harvesting young leaves of lettuce, kale and spinach. This is when the leaves are small and tender, and have the sweetest flavor. Regular harvesting will stimulate plants to produce more leaves.

Thinking Ahead: Preparation for the First Frost

As a reminder, in preparation for freezing temperatures, make sure you mulch around all your plants and keep bare soil covered with mulch or leaves.

If a freeze is expected:

  • Water plants beforehand.
  • Cover newly planted plants, and tender vegetables and landscape plants with row cover, sheets or blankets making sure to secure the fabric to the ground to prevent wind from blowing it up and to seal in heat from the ground.
  • Disconnect hoses, wrap faucets, and drain sprinklers before the freezing night arrives.

Additional Resources

Watch the Vegetable Gardening in Central Texas Webinar

Vegetable Planting Calendar (Español繁体中文)

Recommended Vegetable Varieties for Travis County

Vegetable Seed Sources

Easy Gardening Series Detailed tips from Texas A&M University AgriLife Extension on specific crops and practices.

Vegetable Gardening in Austin Resource hub for all things vegetables for Travis County

Plant Rotations, Successions and Intercropping

Monthly Gardening Calendar for Austin and Central Texas

Sustainable Food Center Farmers Markets

Texas Farmers Markets

Tool Maintenance

About Paula Wolfel

Paula Wolfel joined the Travis County Master Gardener program in 2022, but has been gardening in Austin, Texas since 2017. She grew up in the suburbs of Chicago learning how to garden from both her father—a Sicilian vegetable and fruit tree gardener—and both her grandmothers, and then spent years in Virginia gardening. Paula loves gardening because she finds it to be a grounding force- it gets her out of her head and into the present. She loves the pride that comes with cooking a meal for her family with every ingredient coming from her garden… and then the humility she feels when she loses an entire crop because of Mother Nature. She finds gardening to be wisdom, lessons, best practices passed down generation to generation, season to season and hopes to share that with you.

What’s Happening In Austin’s November Vegetable Garden

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November Vegetable Gardening Checklist from Paula Wolfel

November is a beautiful time in the Austin garden: pests start to ease up or disappear and the heat and humidity are also gone. Gardens are filled with brassicas, leafy greens, and artichokes, while root vegetables are starting to pop out from the soil. There are also still so many flowers and pollinators.

garden bed with multi-colored greens growing in the November vegetable garden

Austin’s Fall Garden has a variety of brassicas, greens, onions and garlic, and root vegetables.

Summer Harvest and Seed Saving

Summer plants that survived the harsh heat and drought of this summer will continue to grow until the first freeze, which the average first frost is November 27th. Keep an eye on the forecast and pick all tomatoes before the first freeze and let them ripen on your kitchen counter, in a sunny window, near bananas, or in a brown paper bag. Eggplants, peppers, cucumbers, okra, and snap beans can also be harvested prematurely. Similarly, snip delicate herbs like basil and either make sauces and freeze them, or dry them and use as dried herbs.

As the summer plants provide their lasts harvest consider saving seeds from open-pollinated annual crops that don’t easily cross-pollinate, like tomatoes, peppers, okra and beans. Shell seeds from pods or the fruit and allow to dry completely. Place in a paper envelope or glass jar and label with variety and date. Store in a cool dry location.

Stockpile Leaves for Mulch or Compost

Stockpile leaves over the next few months to use for spring and summer mulch. Those leaf bags make handy storage containers if you’ve got room to pile them up. Leaves can also be mixed with kitchen waste and added to the compost pile over the winter. Water lightly if the pile is dry to keep the microbial life active.

November Vegetable Garden Checklist

While you’re enjoying the last of the summer blooms, here are some jobs you can do in your November vegetable garden:

FERTILIZE
  • Feed vegetable plants with a water-soluble fertilizer every 2-3 weeks while they are actively growing.
WATER
  • Water as needed. Daily watering is important for seeds and new transplants during the first two or so weeks—until they put out new leaves. Irrigate plants during dry periods; vegetables that are not watered regularly are more susceptible to pests, diseases, and freeze damage.
  • Most vegetables have a growth stage when water is most critical: during head development for broccoli and cauliflower; during flowering and pod enlargement for beans and peas, and during root enlargement for radishes, beets, and carrots. Lettuce and other leafy vegetables do best with a fairly consistent supply of moisture from planting to harvest.
SOIL
  • Late fall is one of the best times to amend your soil. Adding organic materials in the fall all time for them to decompose and break down over the winter. I recommend against tilling because tilling disrupts soil structure that you worked so hard all summer to build! Add a thin layer of compost or organic material to the top of your soil and turn the soil lightly with your hands or a garden fork. If you must till, them consider adding compost before tilling that way you are at least mixing it into your soil.
  • Always cover your soil with mulch. Mulch helps keep moisture in the soil, suppresses weeds, prevents soil erosion, provides cover for beneficial, predatory insects and spiders.
  • Fall is also a good time to get a soil test if you have not done so in a few years. Soil tests will tell you if your soil is ready for the spring and if it is not, it will guide you in what should be added to your soil so you are ready for a big harvest next year. https://soiltesting.tamu.edu/
WHAT TO PLANT
Colorful group of cool season plants to harvest on the November vegetable garden checklist

A selection of cool season, mustard, and Asian greens, collards, kale, chard, lettuces and arugula, and Chinese cabbage.

Seeds

  • Beets (early November)
  • Carrots (early November)
  • Fava beans (early November)
  • Greens, cool season (all month)
  • Radishes (all month)
  • Turnips (first half of the month)

Transplants

  • Garlic (all month)
  • Shallots (all month)

Seeds or Transplants:

  • Asian Greens (all month)
  • Collards (first half of the month)
  • Kale (all month)
  • Kohlrabi (early November)
  • Lettuce (all month)
  • Mustard (first half of the month)
  • Spinach (all month)
  • Swiss chard (first half)
DISEASES AND PESTS TO LOOK FOR
striped worm on a finger

Cross-striped cabbage worm.

  • Fall armywormscabbage worms, cabbage loopers and cross-striped cabbage worms can be an issue this time of year, especially on brassica crops like broccoli, kale and cauliflower. Cover new plantings with row cover to exclude the moth that lays the eggs or treat plants with a product containing Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which comes in either dust or spray form. Bt is deadly when consumed by caterpillars but does not harm other insects. Read the label and follow directions carefully.  You can also pick them off with your fingers, and drop them in a cup of soapy water or squash them.
  • Aphids are also still around. Lady beetles are the best defense. When they are not present, try spraying the plant with a shot of water or using insecticidal soaps and oils.
  • Silverleaf whitefly, grubs, and thrips are also pests that show themselves in the fall and winter garden.
MAINTENANCE
broccoli plants

Well-established brassicas can generally withstand freezing weather.

  • Monitor weather forecasts for freeze warnings and protect tender vegetables by covering with row cover, sheets, or even a box.
  • Tidy up the garden, disconnect hoses, and put away tools before cold weather arrives.
  • Pull or cut down weeds before the go to seed.
  • If you decide to take a break for the winter season be sure to still cover your soil with mulch!
HARVEST
  • Harvest near-ripe tomatoes before the first freeze, and allow them to ripen indoors out of direct sun.
  • Enjoy a supply of fresh salad greens by harvesting young leaves of lettuce, kale and spinach. This is when the leaves are small and tender, and have the sweetest flavor. Regular harvesting will stimulate plants to produce more leaves.

Additional Resources

Watch the Vegetable Gardening in Central Texas Webinar

Vegetable Planting Calendar (Español繁体中文)

Recommended Vegetable Varieties for Travis County

Vegetable Seed Sources

Vegetable Gardening in Austin

Plant Rotations, Successions and Intercropping

Sustainable Food Center Farmers Markets

Texas Farmers Markets

Monthly Gardening Calendar for Austin and Central Texas

Tool Maintenance

About Paula Wolfel

Paula Wolfel joined the Travis County Master Gardener program in 2022, but has been gardening in Austin, Texas since 2017. She grew up in the suburbs of Chicago learning how to garden from both her father—a Sicilian vegetable and fruit tree gardener—and both her grandmothers, and then spent years in Virginia gardening. Paula loves gardening because she finds it to be a grounding force- it gets her out of her head and into the present. She loves the pride that comes with cooking a meal for her family with every ingredient coming from her garden… and then the humility she feels when she loses an entire crop because of Mother Nature. She finds gardening to be wisdom, lessons, best practices passed down generation to generation, season to season and hopes to share that with you.

How to Choose Vegetable Varieties

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Have you ever found yourself at a garden center, staring at a rack of seeds or a table full of transplants and wondering how to choose vegetable varieties for your garden? The many selections at nurseries and online can seem a bit overwhelming, and ending up with plants you don’t need can be costly. The following tips may help with the decision making.

Plan Before You Buy

Assess your garden situation, considering the space you have, the time you can devote to tending plants, as well as the time of year for planting (warm season or cool season). View the Travis County planting calendar for recommended planting dates: https://travis-tx.tamu.edu/files/2020/06/Vegetable-Planting-Calendar-Travis-2015.pdf. The time of year makes a big difference on how to choose vegetable varieties that will thrive in the expected weather conditions.

Focus on Vegetables You Like to Eat

Make the most of your garden investment by choosing vegetables that appeal to you and those who will be cooking and eating the harvest. Consider varieties that are unique, hard to find or more expensive to buy at the grocery store such as orange cauliflower, yellow beans or fingerling potatoes. Take note of the expected harvest from the vegetables you plan to grow to determine how many plants you will need. One tomato seed will produce several tomatoes but one carrot seed will produce one carrot.

Review Gardening Resources

Start your search with reliable variety recommendations from Travis County AgriLife Extension (https://travis-tx.tamu.edu/files/2023/11/VegetableVarieties2023_English.pdf) and Texas A&M (https://aggie-hort.tamu.edu/publications/veg_variety/). Choose vegetable varieties that fit your soil and sun availability.

Shop Seed Sources

local seed library card catalog to help choose vegetable varieties

Some local libraries and community garden clubs offer a seed library or seasonal seed swaps that allow gardeners to trade and share seeds.

Shopping seed catalogs and garden websites is the best way to find specific varieties, whether an old favorite or a new release. Most seed companies allow you to sign up for informative newsletters about their latest offerings. Some provide insight into their work with vegetable breeders and trials before releasing new varieties. Texas based Willhite Seed is a 103-year-old, family-owned business; the varieties they offer are a good barometer of what is popular and dependable in Texas. Community seed swaps, garden club plant sales and seed libraries are also good sources of regional vegetable seeds and transplants. Travis County AgriLife Extension provides a list of reputable seed sources at the following link: https://travis-tx.tamu.edu/files/2021/12/VegetableSeedSources2021.pdf

Check Pricing and Quantity

Specialty hybrid and artisan seeds or varieties that have unusual colors, enhanced disease resistance or other special attributes command a premium price and a seed packet may only contain a small number of seeds. Be sure to check price and quantity before deciding which seed packets you want to add to your cart.

Read the Variety Description

seed packets and catalogs with information to help you choose the vegetable variety best for your garden

Seed catalogs, university websites, seed packets and plant labels provide useful cultivation and harvest information for specific vegetable varieties.

Seed catalogs, plant tags and seed packets provide valuable information that can help with garden layout and timing. Knowing the days to harvest, mature size, spacing recommendations and disease resistance can help you choose varieties that will work for your particular situation. Some varieties are vining, some are bush, some are compact and some are sprawling. Make sure you match the mature size and growth habit to the space you have available.

Look for All-American Selections

Founded in 1932, All-America Selections (AAS) is an independent horticultural organization that coordinates trials of new flower and vegetable varieties in test plots and botanical gardens across the country in search of superior ornamentals and edibles for home gardeners. The winners receive an AAS designation that they display in retail centers and seed catalogs. Past AAS winners include long-time favorites such as ‘Clemson Spineless’ okra, ‘Juliet’ tomato and ‘Bright Lights’ Swiss chard.

Identify Hybrid and Open-Pollinated Seeds

Hybrid varieties are bred to combine desirable characteristics, such as disease resistance or improved yields, from two distinct parent plants. The seed is produced by man-made crosses and often the parent plants are known only to those involved in seed production. Saving seed from hybrids is not recommend because the results will not be consistent and may not display the desired traits. Open-pollinated seeds are described as true to type; they are stable varieties and will produce plants that are genetically identical to the parent plant. Open-pollinated seed can be collected and saved from year to year. Heirloom seeds are open-pollinated varieties that have been saved and passed on for more than 50 years.

Order Early

Trendy and new varieties go out of stock quickly. Other years there are crop failures which mean certain seeds won’t be replenished. Shopping early in the season provides the best selection. Even better, ordering early gives you time to find substitutes for varieties that aren’t available.

Track Results and Repeat!

Use a garden journal or calendar to help you choose vegetable varieties in coming years. Each of our gardens have unique micro-climates and it’s worth keeping track of what works. Run your own experiments by choosing one or two new varieties each garden season as challengers. If you have young children in your life, choose a weird-looking vegetable variety to help keep curious minds engaged. (This also works with spouses.)

Additional Resources

Watch the Vegetable Gardening in Central Texas Webinar

Vegetable Planting Calendar (Español繁体中文)

Recommended Vegetable Varieties for Travis County

Vegetable Seed Sources

Vegetable Gardening in Austin

Plant Rotations, Successions and Intercropping

Sustainable Food Center Farmers Markets

Texas Farmers Markets

Monthly Gardening Calendar for Austin and Central Texas

About Patty Leander

In the Vegetable Garden with Patty G. Leander

 

This post was written by Patty G. Leander.

Patty is a contributing editor for Texas Gardener magazine and an active member of the Travis County Master Gardeners Association with an Advanced Master Gardener specialty in vegetables. She has been growing vegetables year-round in her Austin garden for over 20 years, encouraging the use of sound, horticultural principles that will lead to a bountiful harvest.

 

Texas Tarantulas by Wizzie Brown

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black tarantula spider

A tarantula, Aphonopelma sp. (Araneae: Theraphosidae). Photo by Jackman.

Texas Tarantulas Use Hair As Defense

Tarantulas, also known as baboon spiders in Africa or hairy spiders in South America, are the largest spiders in the world. They can be found on every continent except Antarctica. Tarantulas have two body regions, eight legs, and hairy bodies. Tarantulas that are found in North and South America have hairs used in defense. These tarantulas use their legs to flick hairs off their abdomen and into the face of predators. Hairs cause irritation to the eyes and mucous membranes. Tarantulas can be attacked by birds, lizards, snakes, and tarantula hawk wasps.

Nocturnal Predators

Tarantulas are nocturnal predators and feed on insects, other spiders, small lizards, frogs, and snakes. When prey is captured, it is then bitten with the spider’s fangs and injected with venom with digestive enzymes that kills and liquefies the prey. Once prey is soupy, the tarantula sucks up juices through their fangs. While tarantulas are capable of biting humans, their venom does not react with our body chemistry like widow or recluse spiders. Tarantula bites are comparable to a bee sting.

Fifteen Species of Texas Tarantulas

There are fifteen species of tarantulas in Texas and they create burrows in the ground, typically in well-drained soil. They use their webbing to line burrows which helps to shore up tunnels so they do not collapse. Webbing can also be used to create a molting mat which is laid down before the tarantula sheds its exoskeleton as well as used for handling prey. In other parts of the world, tarantulas live in trees and may use webbing to create a sling as a nest. Tarantulas are solitary, so there will only be one tarantula per burrow.

Tarantulas are arthropods, so they have an exoskeleton which requires them to molt numerous times throughout their life to grow. When ready to molt, which is controlled and signaled by hormones that only arthropods have, the tarantula lays down a silken molting mat, flips over on its back, and pops open the old exoskeleton along a weakened area called the ecdysial cleavage line. The spider must push its way out of the old exoskeleton by expanding and contacting its body to help wiggle its way out. Once the spider has emerged from the old exoskeleton, it stays in place on its back until the new exoskeleton hardens and then it will flip back over.

Brake for Tarantulas!

Some in Texas may come across mass “migrations” of tarantulas. These are not true migrations as the tarantulas are not moving to live in a new area, but instead, are males out searching for females for mating.

While tarantulas may be disconcerting for people when they venture indoors, they really are not a pest and don’t warrant control. The best thing to do is to keep tarantulas outside where they belong be excluding the home so the spiders cannot enter.

For more information or help with identification, contact Wizzie Brown, Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Service Program Specialist at 512.854.9600.

This work is supported in part by the Crop Protection and Pest Management, Extension Implementation Program [award no. 2021- 70006-35347/project accession no. 1027036] from the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) National Institute of Food and Agriculture.

Additional Resources

About Wizzie

Wizzie Brown
Wizzie Brown
County Extension Program Specialist – Integrated Pest Management
Email:EBrown@ag.tamu.edu

Wizzie has been with Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Service since 2002 and has been playing with insects since she was a toddler. She is an Extension Program Specialist with the Integrated Pest Management (IPM) program. Wizzie holds a B.S. in entomology from The Ohio State University and a M.S. in entomology from Texas A&M University. The integrated pest management program provides identification, biological and management information to whomever needs help. Wizzie’s research focuses on imported fire ants, including community wide fire ant management. Wizzie also is happy to provide programs to area groups on a variety of arthropod-related topics. You can find insect and other arthropod information on Wizzie’s blog.

Eat A Rainbow Halloween Style

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Eat a Rainbow Presented by Travis County Master Gardeners

Master Gardener Eat a Rainbow Volunteers Posing for Camera

From left, Peggy Hart, Emily Waters, Beverly Brentwood, Eli Mueller, Mei Yi Pflum, Jana Beckham, Judith Craft, Laura Wilcox, Evelyn Hootkins, Darlene Watson, Kim Leon

How do you get almost 400 third and fourth graders excited about healthy eating with Halloween approaching, which is one of the unhealthiest holidays? Answer… use a colorful poster, sparkling bracelets, and interactive teaching to reinforce that colorful foods are healthy.

Kim Leon teaching two children about nutrition

Travis County Master Gardener Kim Leon teaching students the connection between color and nutrition.

Twelve enthusiastic Travis County Master Gardeners did just that at the Science of Agriculture Event at the Travis County Exposition Center on Thursday, October 5th. The event consisted of eight separate sessions for the Title 1 schools. The children divided into three groups for each session to encourage participation.

Halloween Theme Scares Up Interest

Adults using a skeleton poster to teach students

A skeleton poster associates food color with helpful nutrition.

A Halloween themed spooky skeleton poster illustrates how eating a rainbow of colors affects different parts of the body. The brain, eyes, skeleton, teeth, heart, aging, and the immune system are all tied in with food. Students learned that red is not the only color food that is good for their heart. White, yellow, and orange are “heart healthy” too. Children then called out foods that were red, white, yellow, and orange to illustrate their understanding.

colorful vegetables for children to guess where they belonged on the eat a rainbow activity

Fresh food of different colors for children to identify.

Next, Master Gardeners held up actual, fresh food of different colors and asked the children to identify them. The foods chosen were not on the poster and not ones that they normally see raw. The children identified the food and the targeted body part. Some of the foods relating to the heart included sweet potatoes and mushrooms. As expected, with Halloween right around the corner, pumpkins were frequently called out as healthy food.

Bracelets Crafted As Reminders

Colorful beads representing food groups on children's wrists

Eat A Rainbow activity teaches children that specific colors of fruits & veggies help specific parts of the body.

beaded anklet

Why should wrists have all the fun?

At the end of each session, Master Gardeners distributed black chenille stems and bags of colorful beads that sparkled. Each bead represented a color of food covered in the presentation. As the children strung their beads, Master Gardeners reinforced that each colored bead represented specific healthy foods. The children delighted in wearing their bracelets on their wrists, as well as on their ankles.

The children were encouraged to share the information with their families and to keep the bracelet as a reminder that they should “eat a rainbow.” All of the Master Gardeners felt that this was a fun and worthwhile experience. As a result of this event, children learned that many colorful foods can be healthy and target specific parts of the body; they just have to “eat a rainbow.”

The program “Eat a Rainbow,” developed by Travis County Master Gardener JaNet Booher. It’s a crowd favorite at plant clinics and other community events.

This article was written by Evelyn Hootkins, Travis County Master Gardener and coordinator for the Eat a Rainbow activity.

In Austin’s October Vegetable Garden

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Fall Finally Arrives in the October Vegetable Garden

I am so thankful for fall weather. Shorter days and cool mornings have brought back the gardening enthusiasm that the relentless heat of summer usually drains. That small stretch of rain we had last month really helped too. If you haven’t already, take advantage of the mild, frost-free weather this month and get cole crops, root crops, greens, and garlic established in the garden.

Try Garlic This Year

Garlic makes a great addition to any garden as long as you pick the right variety for the time of year you plan to harvest. I plant very early varieties to make sure that I get a good harvest in mid May. Usually May is our rainiest month, and in my heavy clay soil, the garlic heads will rot if I don’t get them out of the ground. For the rest of you with better soil, you’ll want to plant cloves this month and harvest no later than June.

Garlic hanging on rack to dry in the June vegetable garden

Early maturing garlic varieties can be easy to grow.

Some online garlic sources are starting to sell out, but your local nursery may still have seed garlic in stock. You can plant them in a row, a raised bed, or even in your landscape. Prepare a planting area in full sun and add 3-4” layer of well-decomposed compost to help improve soil structure. Garlic likes to grow in fertile free-draining conditions. Plant the cloves 1-2 inches deep, 6” apart, with the pointy side up. Water regularly throughout the winter and fertilize every 2-3 weeks with fish emulsion, blood meal, or other high nitrogen fertilizer. Full sun and high fertility are needed to produce large bulbs. Cultivate lightly to eliminate competition from weeds being careful to not damage garlic’s shallow roots.

Two Categories of Garlic

There are two categories of garlic: hardneck and softneck. Hardneck is the type that forms a flower stalk or scape as it matures. It grows best in colder climates but you might have some success growing it in Central Texas, especially if you refrigerate it a few weeks before planting. Hardneck varieties include Purple Stripe, Music, Ajo Rojo and Metichi.

I’ve had much better luck with softneck garlic because it’s better suited to our mild winters. Varieties to look for include California Early, Lorz, Inchelium Red, Creole Red, Cuban Purple, and Texas Rose. My favorite variety is Chinese Pink, but I’ve only found it on the Burpee website this year.

There are hundreds of garlic varieties and every year I experiment with at least one new variety. When you find one that works for you, make sure to write down the name for next year.

October Vegetable Garden Checklist

If garlic isn’t your thing, here are some other items in your October vegetable garden checklist:

Fertilizer

  • Fertilize garden vegetables with a water-soluble fertilizer or fish emulsion every 2 weeks as needed. You want to give plants every opportunity to grow before our first freeze hits in late November or early December.

Water and Irrigation

  • Water as needed. Monitor the moisture in your planting beds by using a hand trowel. Dig down to a six-inch depth and use your hand to feel for a soil dampness. Many gardeners make the mistake of watering their mulch instead of getting irrigation directly into the soil.
  • Newly planted seeds and transplants will need extra water to get established. Water more frequently until seeds and transplants put out new leaves.

Planting

Collards

  • Plant garlic any time from mid-October thru early December.
  • Start planting lettuce and spinach as the temperatures begin to cool; a little shade above the plants will help with establishment if warm weather lingers. Look for nursery transplants or plant seed directly in the garden.
  • Cool-season herbs planted now, including cilantro, dill, chives, fennel, parsley and sage, will add zest to meals throughout the winter. Plan to let them flower in the spring to attract beneficial insects.
  • Plant cover crops in fallow areas to improve the condition of the soil. Cool-season options include Elbon rye, clover, Austrian winter peas and hairy vetch. Elbon rye is also a good rotation crop if you have nematode issues. It forms thick root mats that nematodes invade but can’t reproduce in, thus reducing the population in the planting area. Elbon rye is also called “cereal rye” and most independent nurseries in Austin sell it. Make sure you are buying the rye grain, not ryegrass.

Diseases and/or Pests to Look For

Cabbage loopers and other caterpillars can damage fall vegetable crops

Inspect plants regularly for caterpillars that can severely damage leaves of cole crops. Row cover or netting can be used to protect plants from moths that lay the eggs.

  • Keep an eye out for fall pests such as caterpillars, aphids and harlequin bugs. Look for and destroy eggs. Handpick caterpillars. Use a strong spray of water to dislodge aphids from plants.
  • Use row cover over brassica crops to keep the moths and butterflies from laying eggs on the foliage.
  • As we get more rain, slugs and snails will start showing up again. Visit the garden at dusk to pick off these voracious pests. I take a small flat rock with me and have squish fests.

Maintenance

  • Weeds love fall weather as much as vegetables. Keep them in check by regular pulling, hoeing and mulching. An extra bonus is that many weeds can be chopped up and added as a green to the compost pile.
  • One of my favorite weeding tools for fall is a circle hoe. They are great for knocking back weed seedlings in vegetable beds as well as pathways.
  • Watch the weather forecasts. The Austin area has had a freeze as early as Halloween. Get your frost protection ready so that it’s easy to put into place should we start to get cold temperatures. For me that means pulling my frost blankets out of an overhead rack.

Harvest

  • Sweet potatoes are generally harvested this month as their growth begins to slow down. Cut back on irrigation 2-3 weeks before you plan to harvest so soil is dry. Dig carefully to avoid bruising, brush the dirt off and place in a dry, shady location to cure for 5-10 days before storing or eating. Keep pests like squirrels and rats from helping themselves by covering the drying rack with chicken wire and/or netting.
  • Harvest winter squash and pumpkins when the rind is hard. Use pruners to cut from the vine, leaving 1-2 inches of stem attached. Be careful not to nick or scratch the skin as this could invite decay should you decide to store them.

Additional Resources

Watch the Vegetable Gardening in Central Texas Webinar

Recommended Vegetable Varieties for Travis County

Vegetable Seed Sources

Vegetable Gardening in Austin

Plant Rotations, Successions and Intercropping

Sustainable Food Center Farmers Markets

Texas Farmers Markets

Monthly Gardening Calendar for Austin and Central Texas

About Sheryl Williams

Photo of Sheryl WilliamsSheryl Williams has been a Travis County Master Gardener since 2010 and currently works as the Horticulture Program Assistant at Texas A&M AgriLife Extension – Travis County. She was introduced to gardening by her mom and grandma and has been an avid vegetable gardener most of her life. Sheryl believes that there is nothing more satisfying than growing and preparing your own food. She likes gardening in Austin year round and concedes that means pulling weeds every day. She practices organic gardening principles and enjoys the challenge of outsmarting garden pests. Occasionally she loses these battles, but doesn’t mind sharing a good meal.

Opportunities to Grow as a Gardener in Weather Extremes

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tree limbs on the ground from freeze damage

Tree damage from the 2021 storm

Meet “Frovid”

Before and after photos of damaged plantsOn February 12-18, 2021, we thought we had met our garden demise with what we refer to around here as Frovid. After that freeze we felt like our gardens and landscape across our three acre property would forever be changed. We lost so many perennials, succulents, fruit trees, and branches and we thought things would never recover. March rolled around and the massive undertaking of the cleanup was behind us, and thankfully we did not meet our garden demise. Just like the many spring seasons before, plants once again emerged and by May we were in full swing again with beautiful color and healthy plants. One would have never known it ever happened.

And Then Came the Ice

fallen limbs and trees and then same area cleaned up

A lot of downed limbs that had to be sawed up and hauled away.

Fast forward to February 1-2, 2023. The ice apocalypse strikes hard in south Austin. By February 2nd, a third of our trees or branches from trees were so laden with ice that they were splitting, cracking off and uprooting left and right throughout the property. For lack of a better description, our property looked like a war zone. Giant multi trunk cedar trees were splayed completely across gardens, driveways, paths, donkey and chicken runs and on three acres of fence line. We also lost many prized heritage oak branches. We had never felt so overwhelmed in our lives as things deteriorated around us. When it was all said and done, we had major work to do on half of the four hundred plus trees on the property.

More Clean Up

The City of Austin and surrounding counties set up brush drop off sites and once again we had the intense job of cleaning it up. We hired a crew for 2 days that cost us about 2k to get the large branches, uprooted trees, and anything dangling and unsafe. Over the next 30 days I worked everyday chain sawing, stacking, and loading branches. In total, I transported fourteen brush loads in my 10’x 8’ foot trailer across town to the Hornsby Bend city brush drop off site (https://www.austintexas.gov/brushdropoff), a wonderful free service the City of Austin provides.

And Yet…

Same garden with more sunlight and happy plants

More sun has made for healthier plants.

We left town for the month of March for a much-needed break and decided we would regroup in April and see what in the world we were going to do with all of the gardens that were now full blazing sun. Again, just like in 2021 we thought the property as we knew it was never going to recover. Well, here we are in July just 5 months later and things are thriving.

Many plants in our shade gardens were moved or taken out to introduce more sun-loving plants. Overall, things are much happier. It turns out the perennials we had planted in numerous partial shade areas were not getting enough sun and they are now thriving. The loss of these trees allowed us to reinvent some areas that quite honestly were getting a little tired and needed a facelift.

An Opportunity to Grow

These extreme temperatures are hard, and they always create a challenge. Too hot, too cold, but always an opportunity to grow and learn as a gardener and reinvent a spot. One of our most favorite gardens now was our least favorite post freeze. It just never worked with the giant tree towering over it. Now that the tree is gone, we completely recreated it with paths and rocks that provide additional visual interest. The perennials have filled in and are healthy and blooming.

I vow to never think a too hot or too cold season will be the end of what we create. It’s an opportunity to learn and to get in the best shape of our lives pulling it all back together! As the saying goes, “What doesn’t kill us makes us stronger” and that certainly holds true for our little patch in south Austin. Of course, as our temperatures climb past 100 we have a new set of challenges in front of us. This too shall pass.

The Tally – Winners

Plants that made a complete rebound without any losses during both 2021 and 2023 freezes:

Shrubs

  • Pride of Barbados
  • Rock Rose
  • Yellow bells
  • Flame Acanthus
  • American Beauty Berry
  • Knockout Roses
  • Mexican Honeysuckle
  • Sotol
  • Firebush

Grasses/Perennials

  • Gulf Coast Muhly
  • Salvias
  • Majestic Sage
  • Bee Balm
  • Fall Aster
  • Silver Pony Foot
  • Obedient Plant
  • Cannas
  • Plumbago
  • Mexican Sage
  • Turks Cap
  • Shasta Daisies
  • Wormwood
  • Rock Penstemon
  • Fall Aster
  • Lantana
  • Greg’s Mist Flower
  • Clumping Bamboo
  • Mystic Spires
  • Gopher Plant

Vines

  • English Ivy
  • Crossvine

The Tally – Losers

These plants were damaged or a complete loss:

  • Arbequina Olive
  • Peach Trees
  • Cotoneaster
  • Germander Shrub
  • Prickly Pear Cactus
  • Mexican Mint Marigold
  • Jerusalem Sage
  • All Lavender Varieties
  • Ice Plant
  • Bi Color Iris

Additional Plant Resources

Ornamental Plants for Austin

The Grow Green Native and Adapted Landscape Plants guide

About Kay Angermann

East Austin Garden Fair Activities. Fun at the photo booth. Kay is a retired AISD teacher and has been a Travis County Master Gardener since 2018. She and Julie (also a Travis County Master Gardener) have had their “Katy Bird Farm” garden featured on Central Texas Gardener.  They have two miniature donkeys, chickens, dogs, cats, and 15 different gardens on three acres. When she’s not busy on the farm, she’s out gathering vintage signs and décor for her Hipbilly Vintage business.

Texas Superstar® – Trailing Lantana

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butterfly visiting the white flower of trailing lantana

Butterflies visit spring through fall.

Trailing Lantana is a ‘Go-To’ Plant

In Central Texas, Lantana is a ‘go to’ garden specimen for continuous color from spring through fall. It survives our inconsistent freezes, drought, and periods of rain deluge and just keeps coming back.

The purple variety of Trailing Lantana is slightly more hardy than the white, but both are plants you’ll want to have in your garden. The white variety can take more shade than the purple, but still flowers best with direct sun and heat.

Trailing lantana purple flower close up

Clusters of small flower clusters amidst a light green background of foliage.

As with all lantanas, the foliage has a distinct herbal smell which deters most wildlife. The only time a deer has ‘tasted’ a lantana in my yard was as a new planting of a small specimen. The foliage can be a skin irritant, but I experience less of an issue with the smaller Trailing Lantana than I do with the larger bush varieties.

Whichever color you prefer, the butterflies will thank you for the lovely blooms and pollen from early spring until the first frost. It’s not unusual to see various varieties of butterflies visit the plants all summer long.

Propagation Can Happen Naturally

Trailing Lantana can be propagated in two ways: rooted stems and stem cuttings.

Rooted Stems

Trailing Lantana self propagates by developing roots along the long trailing arms. Once rooted, you can easily lift the plant and roots and relocate to a new spot, or put into a container for a flush of blooms. Spring is the best time to transplant these ‘volunteers’ to provide the new plants the lower temperatures to establish deeper roots before the heat of summer arrives.

white flower of trailing lantana

White flower clusters can enhance any garden type.

There is no trick needed to gain multiple plants from the ‘mother plant’, but patience may be needed to allow the small roots to develop. Don’t want additional plants? Just gently pull-up the roots and the thin arm will continue to develop foliage and blooms while the hair-like roots wither.

Stem Cuttings

To propagate by stem cuttings, it’s best to take a cutting in the spring or early summer while the plant is actively growing.

Ideally, take a 6-8 inch cutting which provides several nodes. (A node is the area where leaves have emerged from the stem.) Remove all leaves but the top two-to-three to allow the plant to focus on root development instead of leaf and flower development. Place the cutting in well-drained medium, keep moist (not soggy), and store in indirect sun. Within a couple of weeks, you should see new leaves developing, which is a sign roots have developed. At this stage, take a week to ‘harden off’ the plant by exposing it to increasing levels of direct sun. After a week of full exposure, the plant is ready for it’s new home.

Nearly Maintenance Free and Forgiving

Trailing Lantana will die back after the first frost, and it’s a great wildlife offering to allow the thin wooden limbs to remain throughout the winter months. Since low to the ground, the myriad of brown limbs provide shelter to insects.

Purple flowers on lantana trailing over a stone wall

Lantanas are drought tolerant after the first year.

After the threat of a freeze has passed in the spring, I inspect the limbs, as if it’s one of those winters with no hard freeze, green growth may emerge from the existing limbs while new limbs are also growing. If we’ve had a hard freeze, I cut back the limbs to about 8 inches from the main stem.

Spring is also a good time to check to see if the stem has expanded or duplicated. If so, it’s very easy to dig up, split and replant where you desire. I find there’s always another spot for a plant that blooms all summer, especially in areas where more fragile plants have failed.

And since drought tolerant after the first year, if you forget to water your lantana and it’s drooping and looking a little thirsty – do not fret! Just give the plant a good soaking and it will come back within hours and look as though it never missed a drink. Now that’s the level of maintenance I like during weeks with 100F+ temperatures.

What is a Texas Superstar plant?

The Texas Superstar® program was created by horticulturists to identify and select plants that can be grown across the state of Texas with high confidence in the quality and reliability of the plant. Selections for the program are based upon observations made at replicated plots and demonstration trials across the state and final selection is made by the Texas Superstar® Executive Board.

Additional Resources

Texas Superstar Plants ®

Earth-Kind Landscaping ®

Notes on the Modern Lantana

Best Bee-Friendly Plants for Austin

Butterfly Gardening

Butterfly Plants for Austin

About Yvonne Schneider
Yvonne Schneider, guest blogger

Yvonne was a 35+year veteran in the computer and information technology industry when she retired and moved from Houston to the Austin area. In 2018, Yvonne certified as a Travis County Texas Master Gardener to follow her passion for gardening and volunteering within the community. She has spent 20+ years enjoying gardening and working with bulbs and perennials. She now tackles the challenges presented by the Austin area wildlife, drought, and limestone soil.

The Least I Can Say About Texas’ Native Bees

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native bee on flower

Megachile Bee photo courtesy of Carol Leonardi Clark

June 19th-25th, 2023 is National Pollinator Week. Travis County Master Gardener Vicki Blachman gives us a deep dive into native bees with this guest post.

A Short Intro to Native Bees   by Vicki Blachman

There are over 20,000 bee species in the world.  Of those, close to 4,500 are considered native to the U.S., and up to 1000, native to Texas.  They have seven family classifications, of which six are right here in Texas1.  Our native bees range in size from nearly an inch long down to smaller than a peppercorn2.  I’ve tried to limit the scope of this article to the least I find I can say given that “the native bees of Texas” is a broad topic well suited to the size of our state.

The Importance of Native Bees

The iconic golden yellow and black striped honey maker, the honey bee (Apis mellifera spp.}  is non-native but well established.   As described by Michael Engle in 2009, it also appears to have at least one extinct ancestor (A. nearctica) that lived in North America 14 million years ago3.  Our challenge is that those hairy-eyed honey bees in the Apis family get all the love and recognition while only recently have native bees been recognized for their intrinsic value to local biomes and as the workhorses they are.  They need our help in getting the word out.

How many people even know native bees exist?  The North American colonists imported European honey bees in the 1600’s. Prior to that, only native bees were pollinating every single flowering plant on this continent. Research shows that they are at least 3 times more effective as honey bees for pollination.  Some pollinate plants honey bees can’t, or pollinate certain crops up to 20 times more effectively.  Some like the bumble bee are capable of buzz pollination, or sonication, that honey bees lack.  The takeaway?  Our native bees have co-evolved over time with native plants to be mutually beneficial and mutually dependent – lose one and the other will be lost as well.

Native Bumble Bees Are Social

The terms “native” and “solitary” are often used interchangeably, but not all native bees are solitary, nor are all solitary bees native.  A solitary bee queen will mate, deposit and provision her eggs, then continue laying eggs until her death 4 to 8 weeks after her own emergence.  The eggs grow and pupate alone before emerging the following spring or early summer to repeat the cycle all over again4.

carpenter bee on flower

Carpenter Bee photo courtesy of Carol Leonardi Clark

By contrast, our native bumble bees are social or semi-social. Their nests have two generations at the same time.  Honeybees are eusocial, or” true” social. They have multiple generations of individuals in the hive with each individual assigned a specific role to play in the collective.

Some solitary bees are non-native.  The 1922 Honey Bee Importation law ended the imports of bees and bee products into the United States. This legislation applies only to honey bees. Importing non honey-producing solitary bees for research and subsequent commercial use2 continues. For example, hornfaced bees (Osmia cornifrons) were first imported from Japan to Utah in 1965, but did not survive. In 1976 a second importation into Maryland proved more successful. Thankfully they still thrive there since it’s a climate more like their home in central Japan.   In recent years, the delightfully named shaggy fuzzyfoot bee (Anthophora pilipes villosula) from Japan is successfully pollinating for the commercial blueberry and other fruit industries.

Some solitary bees will form aggregations where nesting conditions are favorable.   Even though a large number of individuals can occupy a site, they live there as individuals. Only a very few species are actually communal, meaning they actively help each other.  Dependent on their environment, some members of the family Halictidae even have the unusual ability to switch between being social or solitary!7

Bee Nesting and Housing

The vast majority, up to 70%4, of North American native bees nest in the ground. Some make cells of mud, bits of leaves or petals, resin, hairy plant fibers, or wood dust. The cells are in underground tunnels that are generally more than a foot deep. Abandoned rodent burrows are a favorite spot.  Ground nesting bees need unmulched, undisturbed soil for their nesting sites.   The remaining 30% are cavity nesters, using hollow reeds, bamboo, logs, pithy stems, softwood structures, and even holes in bricks or other man-made items such as hand tools and equipment5.

bamboo pieces with green leaf plug from nesting bees

Solitary bee nests plugged with bits of leaf.

Man-made bee houses may create teaching moments in the garden.  Scatter the houses instead of clustering them together to avoid predation and reduce susceptibility to disease.  Bee houses should have a guard of chicken wire, or other material with bee-sized holes, slightly out from and across the opening to prevent predation by birds.  Nesting cavities should be at least 5” deep and closed at the back.  Face the openings toward the morning sun, protect from rain, and insulate from extreme cold not placing inside to overwinter.6   Under the Texas Death Star, it can also be beneficial to have plants growing nearby that provide afternoon shade. Habitats should also include a source of moisture and shelter from wind.   In the fall, leave stems for cavity nesters and grasses for shelter.

The native bees of Texas have co-evolved over time with Texas native flora to be mutually beneficial and mutually dependent.   Once you realize their importance, you’ll never think of “bees” in quite the same way.  Now I only need to tell you how important beetles are in pollination!

Additional Resources

Best Bee Friendly Plants for Austin

1http://w3.biosci.utexas.edu/jha/landowner-naturalist/texas-pollinator-guides

2https://www.usgs.gov/faqs/how-many-species-native-bees-are-united-states

3https://ucanr.edu/blogs/blogcore/postdetail.clm?postnum=1544&sharing=yes

4https://www.xerces.org/endangered-species/wild-bees

5https://www.xerces.org/blog/5-ways-to-increase-nesting-habitat-for-bees

6https://news.vt.edu/articles/2020/03/ext-entomologists-tips-for-installing-and-maintaining-native-bee-houses.html

7https://entnemdept.ufl.edu/creatures/misc/bees/halictid_bees.htm

https://www.fs.fed.us/wildflowers/pollinators/animals/bees.shtml

https://tpwd.texas.gov/huntwild/wild/wildlife_diversity/nongame/native-pollinators/bumblebee-id.phtml

https://tpwd.texas.gov/huntwild/wild/wildlife_diversity/nongame/native-pollinators/solitary-social.phtml

https://www.pollinator.org/pollinator-week

About Vicki Blachman

Vicki has been a Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Service – Travis County Master Gardener volunteer since 2004. She holds the Texas Master Gardener Certified Specialist – Entomology title. She’s also recognized as a Habitat Steward and a Monarch Steward through the National Wildlife Federation. She is a co-chair of PollinATX, the working group behind the city of Austin being certified as a Bee City USA. Her home garden has been certified as a Monarch Waystation, a Certified Wildlife Habitat, a City of Austin Certified Butterfly Habitat, and a Best of Texas Wildlife Habitat.