Travis County Extension Programs Blog - Page 10 of 14

In the January 2021 Vegetable Garden by Patty Leander

Posted on January 4, 2021 by sheryl.williams

Keep Gardening!

Pump up your diet by cultivating and consuming a variety of vegetables

Happy New Year! Interest in growing and eating vegetables blossomed during the COVID shutdown last year. I’m hoping that everyone who started a vegetable garden during the pandemic will keep it going. Vegetables are an essential part of a healthy diet for everyone, no matter who you are or how old you are. There are many benefits for everyone to gain from a plant strong diet. Eating vegetables safeguards our health, the process of growing them contributes to our movement and physical activity, and cultivating a garden in the outdoors does wonders for our mental health. A winning trifecta!

Learn to Upcycle

Your vegetable garden carrots are completely edible - both top and bottom of the carrot plant can be used.

Don’t compost those carrot tops – eat them! Try chopping the ferny foliage and incorporating into soups or stir-fry dishes.

A few years ago, I noticed a trend in the food world that has resurfaced in a concept known as upcycling. The idea is to minimize food waste and improve vegetable intake by utilizing parts of the plant we might generally discard – instead of composting those carrot tops, trim them and add them to soup, sauté them with other vegetables or blend them into a pesto; simmer corn cobs to make a stock for chowder; julienne the tender stalks of broccoli to use in salad or stir fry; make stock from stems, peels and skins of herbs and vegetables. This will be my resolution for 2021 – please join me in making the most of the produce that comes from your garden, the CSA, the farmer’s market or the grocery store. Let’s make every vegetable count!

January Checklist

Here is the vegetable gardener’s checklist for January:

Fertilize

Continue to fertilize garlic and other vegetable plants every 2-3 weeks with a liquid plant food or fish emulsion.

Water

Water the garden in the absence of rain. If you connect hoses or turn on sprinklers be sure to turn them off and protect in the event of a hard freeze.

Transplant

Plant short-day onions this month; they will begin to bulb in response to the lengthening days of spring.

Set onion transplants into the garden in mid-January. Success with onions depends on choosing the right varieties for where you live. In Central Texas we want to plant short-day or intermediate-day varieties that begin to bulb in response to the lengthening days of spring but complete their growth before the heat of summer arrives. See our list of recommended varieties here. Big box stores often mistakenly carry varieties that only do well in the north.
Plant onion seedlings 1 inch deep and 2 inches apart. After a few weeks of growth thin seedlings 4-6 inches apart and eat the thinnings as green onions. For optimum growth and development sidedress plants every 3 weeks with ½ cup of a nitrogen-rich fertilizer per 10 feet of row.
Plant lettuce and spinach transplants. Watch for freezing weather and cover newly planted seedlings to protect them from freeze damage.

Seeds to Plant

Collards and Kale thrive in the winter garden.

Collards and kale thrive in a sunny winter garden.

Plant snow peas and sugar snap pea seeds the latter half of January. Give them a head start by planting seeds indoors in individual peat pots. After 2 or 3 weeks the entire pot can be planted outside. Peas plants are quite hardy.
If it’s too cold outside get your hands dirty inside. Fill small containers with moist potting soil and plant seeds of cole crops. Cover tray with plastic wrap and place in a warm location for a few days. As soon as seeds emerge remove plastic and place directly under grow lights. Seedlings should be ready for transplanting in 5-6 weeks. Be sure to label each pot with the date and variety and check the seed packet for detailed planting information.
Growing transplants indoors allows you to garden even on the coldest days of the month.
Plant asparagus crowns this month. Choose a sunny area where plants can grow undisturbed for several years.
Decide when you want to plant tomatoes and count back 7 or 8 weeks. This is when you should plant tomato seeds if you want to grow your own transplants. I usually start my seeds the first week of January, bump them up to a slightly larger container after they produce their first set of true leaves and plant them in the garden in early to mid-March, with protection from wind and cold.

Soil

Take advantage of mild winter days to prepare for spring. Spread compost over planting areas and mix it in as you gently loosen the soil with a spade or fork. There is no need to till or aggressively work the soil; doing so disrupts the soil structure, earthworms and microbes. Cover soil with mulch and let the microbes do the work.

Diseases/Pests

Inspect regularly for pests. Aphids, beetles, and caterpillars may stay active throughout the month, especially on cole crops.

Maintenance

Cultivate good gardener habits: pay attention to the growth of your plants, and plan for a timely harvest when the quality of the vegetables is at the peak of flavor and nutrition.

Additional Resources

Vegetable Seed Sources

Vegetable Gardening in Austin

Sustainable Food Center Farmers Markets

Texas Farmers Markets

Monthly Gardening Calendar for Austin and Central Texas

In the Vegetable Garden with Patty G. Leander

Patty G. Leander is a contributing editor for Texas Gardener magazine and an active member of the Travis County Master Gardener Association with an Advanced Master Gardener specialty in vegetables. She has been growing vegetables year-round in her Austin garden for over 20 years, encouraging the use of sound, horticultural principles that will lead to a bountiful harvest.

One and Done Bulbs by Yvonne Schneider

Posted on December 28, 2020 by sheryl.williams

Floral Treasures for Spring

Red Crown Imperial flowers are an example of one and done bulbs for Austin

Crown Imperial blooms can reach nearly 4 feet in height.

Looking for a pop of color or a unique bloom to boost your spring show? Bulbs may just be your answer! In the Austin area we have many bulb varieties that naturalize and bloom each year. However, our warmer winters are not kind to those bulbs requiring ‘chill hours’. ‘Chill hours’ are the minimum amount of time bulbs must stay below temperatures of 40F.

But if you don’t mind a ‘one and done’ annual show, then your options are endless. Most bulbs, such as tulips (Tulipa gesneriana), come from Holland and arrive pre-chilled and ready to plant. Follow the planting instructions and wait for the spring blooms. After the floral show you can either lift and throw away or just leave in the ground to die. Essentially, you are treating these bulbs like annual flowers.

Unique Crown Imperials

Unique pineapple-looking bloom.

I’m always on the hunt for unique spring bloom that wildlife won’t disturb and can tolerate some shade. I’ve found Crown Imperials (Fritillaria imperialis) to fit the bill. Red crown Imperial (Fritillaria rubra) and yellow crown imperial (Fritillaria lutea) are deer resistant and bloom in mid-spring with highly unique downward facing flowers. The flowering stalks can reach 36-40” in height and are great for cutting and bringing inside. The flowers are fragrant and can be the highlight in a floral arrangement. The musky and herbal smell of the foliage makes them wildlife resistant.

Plant at an Angle

The fleshy bulbs have a center stem hole.

Crown Imperials are recommended for planting zones 5-8. The location I chose has morning sun and afternoon shade since our Austin-area springs can warm up quickly. To plant, grab a pair of gloves, a hand spade, a measuring tape, and a watering can. Handle these fleshy bulbs with gloves to avoid a lingering odor on your hands. These are larger bulbs, about 3-inches in diameter, requiring a planting depth of 6-8 inches to support their tall flower stalks.

Plant 6-8 inches deep to support tall stems

Recognizing many might have limestone rock beneath the soil, be sure your location has sufficient depth by measuring your hole. Once you have the desired depth, plant the bulb at a 45-degree angle to avoid water from being caught in the center (or stem hole) of the bulb and possibly causing bulb rot. Replace the soil and water well to activate the bulb to begin its growth cycle. Add a little mulch to help preserve the moisture over the fall/winter months.

Impressive Show

Purple blooms of Snake’s Head Fritillary are another example of one and done bulbs for Austin

Purple blooms of Snake’s Head Fritillary are show-stoppers.

These impressive plants are accompanied by whorls of lance-shaped foliage around the lower ½ of the stem and the added foliage above the flower gives a pineapple effect. The bulbs can spread 1-1.5 feet across, so you don’t need too many of these to enjoy a unique display next spring. Or, if you prefer a smaller version, try the Snake’s Head Fritillary (Fritillaria meleagris) which only grow up to 12 inches in height. Plant these in large groupings for the full effect of their purple spotted blooms. Although these bulbs also have an odor to deter wildlife, the smaller bulb does not have the potent smell of its larger cousin. In fact, I had to replant two of the twelve bulbs I originally planted due to curious squirrels. Since their first encounter, however, they have left them alone. Now I just wait until spring to enjoy the unique blooms.

Tulip Show Extraordinaire

If tulips are your passion, go right ahead and order a few and enjoy the one-time show in your garden. Need ideas? The largest tulip show in the Netherlands is the Keukenhof gardens outside of Amsterdam. Every March through May the gardens highlight over 7 million bulbs in various displays cultivated by local artists and growers. I had the pleasure to see the gardens a few years ago on a leisure trip, and even my husband said it was one of the best excursions we’ve ever taken – and he’s not a ‘flower person’ but tolerates my passion.

Rows of blooming flower bulbs at Keukenhoff Gardens.

Keukenhoff bulb display.

Storing Bulbs

If you prefer to re-use your bulbs that require chilling hours, allow the foliage to wilt and die. The dying foliage provides nutrients to the bulb for next year’s blooms. Once the foliage is brown, the bulb is ready to be lifted. Remove all soil from the bulb and spread in a shady dry place, such as a garage, to allow the bulb to completely dry. This may take a week. Then store the bulbs in a cool dry place (60-65F) with good air circulation, such as a cardboard box with holes, or hanging in a nylon hose. If storing in a box or container, you can layer the bulbs, however, do not create more than 3 layers to allow for proper air circulation.

Prepping for Next Year

The bulbs that require a dormancy period must be tricked into thinking they’ve experienced the dormant period by placing them in a refrigerator for 4-6 weeks. Check the requirements for the individual bulb type for exact timing. One word of caution – avoid storing fruit in the refrigerator along with the bulbs, as ripening fruit releases ethylene gas which inhibits bulb flowering. With a little TLC, your bulbs will be ready for planting and willing and able to produce the bloom show all over again each spring. Just remember to trick dormancy in enough time prior to the planting season.

Additional Resources

Bulbs for Central Texas

December Gardening Checklist

Yvonne was a 35+year veteran in the computer and information technology industry when she retired and moved from Houston to the Austin area. In 2018, Yvonne certified as a Travis County Texas Master Gardener to follow her passion for gardening and volunteering within the community. She has spent 20+ years enjoying gardening and working with bulbs and perennials. She now tackles the challenges presented by the Austin area wildlife, drought, and limestone soil.

The Gift of Amaryllis Bulbs by Yvonne Schneider

Posted on December 21, 2020 by sheryl.williams

The beautiful Amaryllis ‘Hardy Red’

Amaryllis Bulbs Popular Holiday Gift

Amaryllis bulbs are a popular gift during the holiday season that you can find at local grocers, big box stores, nurseries, and even online. The Hardy Red Amaryllis (Hippeastrum x johnsonii) is a great variety for Central Texas, but you can find different shapes and colors (white, red, pink, salmon, and yellow hybrids) that grow well in our area.

The great thing about Amaryllis is the large bloom, anywhere from 5-10 inches in diameter, depending upon the variety. The foliage grows up to 18” in height, with the flower stalk 6-8” above that. If planted in a high wind area, the flower stalks may require staking to avoid falling over. When planted outdoors, Amaryllis bloom in spring, normally around Easter. The strappy green foliage is semi-evergreen or evergreen. Here in Austin, plant Amaryllis in a sunny location with a little afternoon shade. This year, I bought the Amaryllis Elvas (Hippeastrum ‘Elvas’) and Ruby Star (Hippeastrum ‘Ruby Star’) to enjoy indoors during the holidays, with plans to relocate outdoors for future admiration and naturalization.

Bulbs are Large

The larger the bulb, the older it is.

When looking for Amaryllis bulbs, size definitely matters – the larger the bulb, the older the bulb, and the greater number of stems and blooms you’ll receive. Each stem will produce multiple blooms, and the show can last from weeks to a month. Expect to pay a little more for the larger bulb, but a few dollars more is well spent to ensure your holiday bloom. Inspect the bulb upon receipt to ensure it’s firm, as a mushy bulb indicates it is beginning to rot and die. You may also see the foliage beginning to appear, which is also a sign of health. It’s best to plant soon after purchase, but you can store in a cool dry location if required. Just remember to keep the bulb dry to avoid rotting.

Plant for Indoor Enjoyment

Plant with pointed side up.

To plant in a container, grab a pair of gloves, potting soil, and a container deep enough to allow 2-4 inches of soil beneath the bulb and approximately one inch from the sides of the container. If planting multiple bulbs in one container, allow for an inch between each bulb. Fill the container with potting soil and set the bulb, pointy side up, on top of the soil. Place the bulb so that the top inch, or neck, is above the soil line. Fill in with soil and water just enough that the soil feels like a wet sponge (not dripping wet). Place the container in a sunny location, ideally close to a window.

Only water the bulb once you see the foliage begin to emerge. Then keep the soil moist, but not wet. In 40-60 days, you’ll have beautiful blooms to share with company or just admire yourself. Amaryllis bloom in temperatures ranging 65-75F, therefore the warmth of an indoor room (or greenhouse) is required to force the blooms earlier than springtime.

Once the blooms have expired, allow the foliage to wilt and die before removing, as that feeds the bulb for next year’s blooms. At this point, you need to decide whether to store the bulb for next year’s container blooms, or plant outdoors. If storing, wipe all the soil off the bulb and allow to dry in a cool dark area, like a garage. Once dry, store in peat moss or a nylon stocking to allow for air circulation and a dry home.

Plant for Outdoor Enjoyment

In the Austin area, we have the benefit of warmer winters allowing for Amaryllis bulbs (rated USDA zones 8b-10) to naturalize in our gardens. Amaryllis bloom best with a minimum of 4-6 hours of sun, with morning sun preferred (don’t we all enjoy a little afternoon shade?). As with the container planting, plant the bulb with the pointy side up allowing for the top inch, or neck, to remain exposed above the soil line. Amaryllis can tolerate any type of soil but must have at least 2 inches beneath the bulb to accommodate the roots. If planting multiple bulbs, allow for 3-4 inches between the bulbs to allow for eventual offsets and so as not to crowd the roots. Amaryllis are great bulbs to place in between perennials or ground covers, and shine when located near a succulent.

Not a “One and Done”

Often amaryllis bulbs are bought to enjoy during the holidays and then discarded once the blooms are over. These bulbs are easy to naturalize or store for ongoing enjoyment, with just a little care. I hope to continue trying new varieties enjoy a half dozen or more in my garden for that spring ‘pop’ of color. Amaryllis are hearty and willing to perform – try them today! Or wait until after the holidays and buy for half the price and find a spot in your garden. You’ll be glad you did come spring.

Additional Resources

Bulbs for Central Texas

December Gardening Checklist

Our Dive into Rainwater Collection by Martha King

Posted on December 14, 2020 by sheryl.williams

Rainwater collection instead of a pool?

Newly installed rainwater collection system

The newly installed 5,ooo gallon tank.

When I retired, my partner Beverly and I considered building a swimming pool. But the more we thought about a pool, the more trouble and expensive it sounded. It also didn’t seem environmentally responsible in a world that is becoming increasingly more focused on water conservation. Instead we dove headfirst into installing a rainwater collection system.

Get the biggest tank that you can afford

I consulted with experts about the scope of such a project. The collective advice was to invest in as big a rainwater collection tank as we could afford. Since we live in a central, urban neighborhood, we thought it best to go wide rather than tall. Our home has two lots. The landscape design features understories, ponds, birdbaths, and seating areas under a canopy of decades old oaks and elms. It’s basically a small urban wildlife paradise, and a perfect place to camouflage a rainwater tank!

Research applicable regulations

Our initial motivation for collecting rainwater was to utilize it for irrigating our vegetable garden. We somewhat naively thought that we could connect such a tank to our existing drip irrigation system. Conceptually it could work with the proper mechanisms in place. However, we quickly realized that there were a number of actualities that made our plan unrealistic.

First off, there is the City of Austin and its regulations. We learned of the city regulation that prohibits pumping water from one lot to another. Our project required a number of city officials to grant a variance for the water-pumping regulation. One of the holdouts required the influence of our city council representative to get his ultimate approval.

With that final flaming hoop extinguished, we then realized that the average monthly rainfall in Austin was not conducive to using rainwater in our drip irrigation system. As most of you know, rainfall in Austin is feast or famine, so the tank would sometimes be overflowing and sometimes be too low for regular watering, especially during peak growing seasons. All that said, we still recognized the value of collecting rainwater for manually irrigating our gardens and yard.

Rainwater conveyance takes planning

After researching all of the options, we decided on a fiberglass tank, primarily because of the minimal maintenance required and the longevity of the tank and fittings. We picked a 5,000-gallon tank, which is about 15.5 feet wide and 7 feet tall, that fit our budget and scale.

Holding the water, of course, is only one piece of the puzzle. You have to find a way to get the water into and then back out of the tank. We planned to collect rainwater runoff from our house, but our tank would not be close to it. Therefore, we had to find a way to get the water from the roof back to the tank. For that we hired a designer to help map out a system of underground pipes that would go from two corners of the back of the house and carport, eventually meeting before carrying the water up into the tank.

Trenches were dug to lay PVC pipe from the gutters to the rainwater tank.

We installed gutters on the four metal roof surfaces to direct the water, for a combined total of 1,370 square feet. Using rainwater collection calculators, we knew it would take about 6 inches of rain to fill the 5,000-gallon tank. For those times of deluge (e.g., Memorial Day weekends), there is an overflow at the back of the tank that flows into a PVC pipe with holes in it running along the back of our lot. That overflow helps to irrigate our neighbor’s pecan trees. For the underground pipes, we hired two very conscientious irrigation workers who hand trenched every foot, carefully avoiding almost all of the major roots from the large trees that tower overhead.

We opted for a pump

Now to get the water back out. For that we installed a Grundfos pump and built a small doghouse-sized pumphouse to protect it. This pump provides rainwater on demand to two spigots we added to the yard specifically for rainwater access. Attached are purple hoses (to indicate non-potable water) for hand watering our vegetable gardens, filling our fishponds and birdbaths, and for watering the potted plants on the patio.

A lesson learned

With one painful exception, the tank has never failed to provide adequate supplemental water, even during our longest drought periods. The one hard-earned lesson occurred when I attached a sprinkler to one of the rainwater hoses and unintentionally left it running overnight. Our large trees loved the overindulgence, I am sure, but I have never used a sprinkler since and am careful to turn off the spigots after each use.

City of Austin rebate may be available

One final notable incentive, if you still need one. The City of Austin offers a rebate for the installation of preapproved rainwater collection systems, up to a maximum lifetime total of $5,000.

Additional Resources

Rainwater Harvesting resources from Texas A&M AgriLife Extension

Weather Strategies for Austin Gardeners

Martha King joined the Travis County Master Gardeners Association in 2014 after retiring as head of endowments for the University of Texas at Austin, where she enjoyed a 30-year career. She served on the TCMGA board as secretary from 2017-2019 and has worked extensively with the Inside Austin Gardens Tour, including in her own garden as part of the 2015 tour. As a longtime urban gardener in the Crestview neighborhood, she loves nurturing her landscape of native perennials, butterfly and moth attracting vines, and towering shade trees, a favorite corner for neighbors walking by. She is also a regular volunteer at the TCMGA Plant Clinic at the Sunshine Community Gardens Plant Sale, where she loves making new friends and seeing old ones to talk about tomatoes and other plant growing challenges in Central Texas.

Gifts for the Vegetable Gardener by Patty Leander

Posted on December 7, 2020 by sheryl.williams

Vegetable Gardener Gift Ideas

Example gifts for the vegetable gardener like an ergonomic trowel, a serrated garden knife and a hat with a wide brim and protective neck covering

Tackle garden chores with an ergonomic trowel, a serrated garden knife and a hat with a wide brim and protective neck covering

Do you need gifts for the vegetable gardener in your life? Often when I reach for a particular tool or garden aid, I think about how useful it is or what a good gift it would make for a fellow gardener. Below are some of these favorite items that might spark some ideas for holiday gift giving. (Note: These are Patty’s personal selections, not paid endorsements.)

Gardening Books

There are so many books out there about vegetable gardening. I am partial to those written by authors who actually live and garden in Texas. If it doesn’t have okra in the index, I’m not buying it! The Texas Gardener magazine website offers the following books – authored by noted Texas experts – along with a variety of excellent tools. The Texas A&M University Press is another great source.

Grow Great Vegetables in Texas by Trisha Shirey
Easy Gardening for Texas by Joseph G. Masabni
Texas Fruit and Vegetable Gardening by Greg Grant

Two books that don’t feature vegetables but have great local gardening advice are offered by the Travis County Master Gardeners.

The Garden Guide for Austin and Vicinity features a month-to-month garden guide and our vegetable planting calendar.
From Drought to Deluge: The Resilient Central Texas Garden contains information on Austin area soil types, weather patterns, composting, and reducing dependence on chemical fertilizers and pesticides.

Gift Certificates

Most local nurseries and mail order catalogs offer gift cards or e-mail certificates that can be sent directly to the recipient and make excellent gifts for the vegetable gardener. Many of the seed sources we recommend have extensive tool sections.

Favorite Garden Tools

More gifts for the vegetable gardener: a stainless steel widger, compost thermometer, half-gallon pump sprayer, Texas Gardener baseball cap, irrigation timer, sun sleeves and Joyce Chen scissors.

Helpful tools for the hardworking vegetable gardener: a stainless steel widger, compost thermometer, half-gallon pump sprayer, Texas Gardener baseball cap, irrigation timer, sun sleeves and Joyce Chen scissors.

A CobraHead Weeder is a multi-tasking tool that can be used for weeding, loosening soil, digging a seed furrow, edging a row and more.
Ergonomic tools are always welcome. Check out the Radius website for a variety of garden tools designed to increase comfort and minimize stress on hands and wrists.
Small handheld pump sprayers, like the half-gallon size, are useful for small jobs.
Johnny’s Selected Seeds is an excellent source for vegetable seeds as well as many useful tools. Some favorites are a stainless steel widger for potting up seedlings, a compost thermometer, harvest aprons, long-handled weeders, and biodegradable seedling pots.
I LOVE this serrated garden knife from Barnel. It is great for harvesting greens, removing diseased leaves from plants and chopping weeds off at the soil line.
Large dish bins, usually available at restaurant supply stores, are great to have on hand. You can use them for mixing and storing potting soil, for transporting vegetable transplants from the nursery in your car, or for carrying supplies to the garden.

Sun Protection

My favorite hats are from Tula and Sunday Afternoons. Texas Gardener also offers baseball caps in 5 colors, including burnt orange and maroon.
Sun sleeves can protect your arms without slathering on tons of sunscreen.

Garden Bling

Garden bling like a birdbath, a decorative sign, metal artwork, plant labels, sun catchers or other decor that match the gardener’s personality make great gifts for the vegetable gardener.

Gift Memberships

Consider a membership to a local garden or gardening organization. Two examples are the Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center or the American Horticultural Society. Both offer reciprocal admissions to beautiful public gardens across the country.

A sturdy plastic bin, gardening books, ergonomic hand tools, metal plant stakes and other tools

A sturdy plastic bin, gardening books, and other tools help make gardening more fun and successful.

Additional Resources

Vegetable Seed Sources

Vegetable Gardening in Austin

Sustainable Food Center Farmers Markets

Texas Farmers Markets

In the December Vegetable Garden by Patty Leander

Posted on November 30, 2020 by sheryl.williams

Time for Greens and Pomegranates

Your December garden checklist is here and ‘tis the season for fresh broccoli, cauliflower, hearty greens, delicious citrus…and pomegranates!

Hold a pomegranate half, seed side down, over a bowl and whack it several times to remove seeds.

It’s hard to resist the beautiful pomegranates available this time of year. The ruby red arils add a pop of color and a little tangy sweetness to salads, pilafs, or even sprinkled atop a dish of Christmas guacamole. If you’ve been to the grocery store lately, you’ve undoubtedly noticed pomegranates prominently displayed in the produce section. Or perhaps you are lucky enough to have your own tree.

The exotic nature of the pomegranate can be a bit confounding when it’s time to liberate those juicy seeds. A long-time recommendation is to cut the pomegranate in half or quarters and turn them inside out into a bowl of water to release the seeds. But there’s an easier way – paddle your pomegranate! Cut the pomegranate in half and hold it over a wide bowl, cup it upside down in your hand and whack it – again and again – with a sturdy spoon. The arils pop right out and fall into the bowl. Here is a helpful video demonstration from Jamie Oliver.

Drier Weather = More Irrigating

Summer just didn’t want to let go this year but finally we are in the zone for cool season gardening. November brought mild and sunny days followed by cool and comfortable nights. These blissful days almost make me forget that we haven’t had significant rain lately, so be sure to put irrigating on your December garden checklist. An inch of water per week, enough to wet the soil 3-4 inches below the surface, should be sufficient.

The average first frost for Central Texas usually hits in early December. However, weather forecasters say that we are in a La Niña cycle which means that winter will likely be warmer and drier than normal. One of the local meteorologists is even calling for shorts and flip flops for Christmas! Of course, the possibility of freezes still exists but hopefully we will avoid freezing temperatures that are cold enough to damage unprotected hoses, pipes and plants.