Travis County Extension Programs Blog - Page 5 of 14

Austin’s November Vegetable Garden By Paula Wolfel

Posted on November 1, 2022 by sheryl.williams

Although the daytime temperatures may not indicate it, Fall has arrived for Austin’s November Vegetable Garden. It’s that goofy time of year where you are finally enjoying your summer garden and yet preparing for the first frost. According to National Weather Service, the average first frost in Austin is November 29th.

Sampling of Paula’s last fall harvest: summer pickings still in November

Thinking Ahead: Preparation for the First Frost

We know it’s coming, so make preparations now so that you aren’t scrambling at the last minute. Two things you can do right now is to mulch around all your plants and any bare soil and get your row cover ready to deploy.

Watch the weather and if a freeze is expected, do the following:

Water plants beforehand
Cover newly planted plants, and tender vegetables and landscape plants with row cover, sheets or blankets making sure to secure the fabric to the ground to prevent wind from blowing it up and to seal in heat from the ground
Disconnect hoses, wrap faucets, and drain sprinklers before the freezing night arrives

November Vegetable Garden Checklist

Here are some other items that you can add to your Austin’s November Vegetable Garden to-do list.

Planting

You can still plant seeds of the following:
- Beets (early November)
- Carrots (early November)
- Fava beans (early November)
- Greens, cool season (all month)
- Radishes (all month)
- Turnips (first half of the month)
You plant these bulbs:
- Garlic (all month) – softneck varieties do much better in our heat
- Shallots (all month)
These can be either by seeds or transplants:
Kale growing in November
- Asian Greens (all month)
- Collards (first half of the month)
- Kale (all month)
- Kohlrabi (early November)
- Lettuce (all month)
- Mustard (first half of the month)
- Spinach (all month)
- Swiss chard (first half)
If you are like me and have wildflowers in the garden to bring pollinators, now is the last chance to sow wildflower seeds for the spring.

Water

Hopefully it will rain more now that summer is over, but still monitor the weather and keep an eye on how healthy your plants and the soil look and feel. Each garden is different so you will need to see what works for your garden in your specific Austin microclimate. I live in the western most part of Travis County, in Hill Country. We have only inches of soil on top of limestone. My garden is exposed in full sun and I live on elevated land so we get lots of wind. So keep in mind my watering may be very different than yours. When the daily temperatures remain in 80s, I water my garden every other day-especially because I keep my tomato, eggplant, and melon plants going until the first freeze (the melons usually give up sooner). For my fall transplants and seedlings, I water every 3-days if the weather remains sunny and high 70s/ 80s, but once the temperatures fall steadily into low 70s and below, I water 1-2 a week.
Sign up for irrigation recommendations. I recommend the Water My Yard program for weekly watering advice that comes straight to your email inbox! Even though this free service is primarily for your lawn, it provides me with a base of how much water has come into my area within the week and I can then use that information towards my garden’s watering needs. The city of Austin does not participate in this program, so just choose the information from the next closest municipality.

Fertilizer

Feed vegetable plants with a water-soluble fertilizer every 2-3 weeks

Diseases and Pests

Aphids and cabbage loopers can still be active in November. You can hand pick them off—which I am busy doing with my kale—or use row cover to keep them from your crop.

Maintenance

Mulch everything! A gardener should keep beds well-mulched all year round to help keep weeds under control, conserve moisture, and maintain soil temperature. This time of year, I transition from pine straw to a shredded bark mulch because it offers better protection from the cold.
Make sure to keep an eye on nighttime low temperatures. Once temperatures drop consistently below 50 or reach freezing, pull any tomatoes from your summer garden that are green and ripen them inside your house on a sunny windowsill.
Finally, pull out any of your summer garden that has died or will no longer produce.
Keep on top of weeds and don’t let them set seed.

Additional Resources

Local Climate Records for Austin Texas

Watch the Vegetable Gardening in Central Texas Webinar

Vegetable Seed Sources

Vegetable Gardening in Austin

Plant Rotations, Successions and Intercropping

Sustainable Food Center Farmers Markets

Texas Farmers Markets

Monthly Gardening Calendar for Austin and Central Texas

About Paula Wolfel

Paula Wolfel is new to the Travis County Master Gardener program but has been gardening in Austin, Texas since 2017. She grew up in the suburbs of Chicago learning how to garden from both her father—a Sicilian vegetable and fruit tree gardener—and both her grandmothers, and then spent years in Virginia gardening. She loves gardening because she finds it to be a grounding force- it gets her out of her head and into the present. She loves the pride that comes with cooking a meal for her family with every ingredient coming from her garden… and then the humility she feels when she loses an entire crop because of Mother Nature. She finds gardening to be wisdom, lessons, best practices passed down generation to generation, season to season and hopes to share that with you.

Last Chance for Fall Plant Cuttings

Posted on October 26, 2022 by sheryl.williams

Take Herbaceous Plant Cuttings Now

October is a great time to take plant cuttings of your favorite perennials to propagate in your greenhouse or home over the winter. Propagating your own plants now helps to preserve plants that might be lost in the upcoming freezes and is a source of free plants for spring planting.

Eight Steps for Successful Plant Propagation

Container of propagation media for plant cuttings

Coir and vermiculite are used in this propagation medium

Propagation Medium

The first thing you need is the right medium to root your cuttings in. Aeration, drainage and ability to hold moisture are all important characteristics to consider. Do NOT use potting soil. The role of the medium is to support the plant while it’s developing roots – not to actually grow the top of the plant. For this reason, coir, perlite, vermiculite, or even sand are the right materials to use. Whatever you choose, make sure it’s been sterilized to inhibit fungal disease.

Moisture

handful of propagation media that is forming moist clumps

Moist medium should clump together loosely

Proper moisture is key to getting the roots to grow from the stem cutting. Make sure to moisten the propagation mix before you use it. Be careful not to breathe any dust from your dry ingredients while you’re mixing and moistening the medium. Wear a dust mask if you have one.

Sometimes the medium (especially coir) is so dry that it may have to sit for an hour or more to absorb the water. Test the moisture level by squeezing a handful of medium in your hand. It should form a loose clump.

Take the Cuttings

plant stems laying on table being readied for propagation

Choose healthy stems that haven’t bloomed.

For best results on herbaceous plants, choose stems that haven’t flowered and are still flexible when bent. There are two types of cuttings: tip cuttings and section cuttings.

Remove lower leaves and the excess stem below a node.

For a tip cutting, select a stem with healthy leaves at the tip. Remove the lower foliage and leave the stem with one or two bare nodes.

For stem cuttings, take two- to three-inch sections of stem that include nodes, keeping track of which end is up. Carefully remove the lower foliage to leave a section of bare stem to insert into the propagation medium.

For both methods, cut off excess stem at the lowest node. Removing this extra piece of stem helps prevent rot. I like to have at least two nodes from which roots can grow.

Rooting Hormone?

Rooting powders or gels that provide supplemental auxin (a naturally occurring hormone responsible for root development) can be used but may not be necessary. To use hormones, dip the basal end of the cutting into the hormone before sticking it in the propagation medium.

Place Cuttings into Medium

Here a piece of bamboo is used to create a hole in the medium.

Use a pencil or some other tool to make a hole in the rooting media. This is especially important if you’ve dipped the cutting in rooting hormone because you don’t want to strip off the substance as you insert the cutting. Gently firm the soil around the cutting with your finger or the tool.

This 4-inch pot has a cutting positioned above each drainage hole.

I usually place more than one cutting in the tray or pot. In a four-inch pot I’ll have three or more cuttings placed around the edge. I’ve found that placing them right next to the edge above a drainage hole helps me to see when the cuttings are properly rooted.

Don’t forget your plant tags! Write the name of the plant and the date you took the cutting. These kind of records help you learn best practices for your unique set of plants and propagation methods.

Humidity

Use old plastic bags or bottles to maintain humidity, place in diffused light.

Your cuttings don’t have roots, which means they have no way to replace water lost through transpiration. Transpiration is the process in which plants release the water vapor through the leaves.

To increase humidity for the cuttings, I like to use old plastic storage bags, but you can use plastic wrap or even tops or bottoms of clear plastic bottles. You still need ventilation to avoid disease, so don’t seal the bag. If using a plastic bottle, take off the screw top.

Light

Light can be a factor in the speed of root development. Low light levels can slow the progress of root formation. Conversely, very intense light can place too much stress on the cuttings. It’s best to find an indirect, diffused source of light. I use an east-facing sliding glass door that doesn’t get direct sunlight for my propagation area.

Temperature

For best results, maintain daytime temperatures at 70 degrees F. If you can’t, use a heat mat that will provide rootzone temperatures between 70-75 degrees F. Some people have heated propagating benches in their greenhouses for this very purpose.

How Long Does it Take?

Not all plants form roots at the same rate. It can take a few weeks to a month before new roots appear at the leaf nodes. Keep your cuttings watered during this time so that the medium stays moist. You should let them get a nice mat of roots before potting them into growing mix. I usually wait until I can see roots growing through the bottom of the tray or pot (which is why I position them above the drainage holes.) You can use a popsicle stick or butter knife to gently lift the cuttings out of the pot to check for roots after ten days or so. Don’t get discouraged unless the stem starts to rot.

Cheap Plants!

Learning how to propagate your own plants is fun and a great way to increase your plant collection without spending a lot of money. You’re also cultivating particular types or varieties that survive in your unique gardening situation. This increases your chance for success and makes your thumb even greener. Be careful though, it’s addictive. Be sure to find neighbors or friends that will take your excess inventory – or just become a plant hoarder like me.

Additional Resources

Plant Propagation information hub.

Principles of Propagation by Cuttings from Dr. Fred Davies, Department of Horticultural Sciences, Texas A&M University

For a list of plants and their preferred propagation method see Propagation of Selected Annuals and Herbaceous Perennials Used As Ornamentals from Hartmann, Hudson T, Kester, Dale E, Davies, Fred T., Geneve, Robert L.; Hartmann and Kester’s Plant Propagation Principles and Practices; 8th Edition; Prentice Hall 2011

Biology of Plant Propagation from Hartmann, Hudson T, Kester, Dale E, Davies, Fred T., Geneve, Robert L.; Hartmann and Kester’s Plant Propagation Principles and Practices; 8th Edition; Prentice Hall 2011

Research Publication Hub for Dr. Fred Davies, Department of Horticultural Sciences, Texas A&M University

How to Pasteurize Medium and Sterilize Containers and Tools

About Sheryl Williams

Sheryl Williams has been a Travis County Master Gardener since 2010 and currently works as the Horticulture Program Assistant at Texas A&M AgriLife Extension – Travis County. She was introduced to gardening by her mom and grandma and has been an avid vegetable gardener most of her life. Sheryl believes that there is nothing more satisfying than growing and preparing your own food. She likes gardening in Austin year round and concedes that means pulling weeds every day. She practices organic gardening principles and enjoys the challenge of outsmarting garden pests. Occasionally she loses these battles, but doesn’t mind sharing a good meal.

Where are the Birds?

Posted on October 24, 2022 by sheryl.williams

Chimney Swift is a migratory bird that passes through Austin. Image by Zak Pohlen.

Are Migratory Bird Populations Down?

Dr. Maureen Frank, an Assistant Professor & Extension Wildlife Specialist, recently issued a wildlife update based on the several questions she’s received this fall about bird populations. Maureen reports that she’s hearing from backyard birders who have noticed their feeders are awfully quiet, and they are wondering if something is wrong.

It’s Normal for Fall to be Quiet

Fall is a pretty quiet time for birds, especially before the cold fronts arrive. The species that breed in the Austin area in the summer have already moved south. The migratory birds that normally spend the winter here haven’t come down from the north yet. Many migratory species will “ride” down on a cold front, so folks may see some increased numbers now compared to a couple weeks ago.

Fall migration is much less intense than spring migration. In the spring, migrants are rushing to stake a claim on breeding territories, and early arrivals tend to be more successful at breeding and raising young. In the fall, it’s a gradual trickle south since breeding season has already passed and it’s caused more by weather or food availability.

Probably Not Related to HPAI

Dr. Frank doesn’t believe the decreased number of birds has anything to do with the highly pathogenic avian influenza (HPAI; “bird flu”). She says that, yes, wild birds can get avian influenza, but it doesn’t usually have the same impact as we see in the poultry industry. Audubon Texas put out a good release back in the spring when this was a concern: https://tx.audubon.org/aboutus/our-response-avian-flu-concerns.

AgriLife Extension doesn’t have recommendations per se about taking down bird feeders during an HPAI outbreak. Diseases can be transmitted at feeders though, so it’s critical to keep them clean.

Report Your Findings!

Maureen urges backyard birders to contribute their observations to science. She recommends two apps for this: iNaturalist or eBird. Both have easy entry of data so the experts can study it and see if there are actually trends or concerns. This is especially important because some backyard favorites – including hummingbirds – are experiencing severe population declines.

About Maureen Frank

Dr. Maureen Frank is an Assistant Professor & Extension Wildlife Specialist for Texas A&M AgriLife Extension. She provides support to AgriLife Extension county agents and participates in program development, result demonstrations and agent training. She also develops educational materials related to wildlife and conducts applied research projects to address area wildlife management issues. Frank has a Ph.D in wildlife biology from the wildland resources department at Utah State University in Logan, Utah, and a bachelor’s degree in wildlife and fisheries sciences from Texas A&M University, College Station. You can reach Dr. Frank at mgfrank@tamu.edu or by phone at 830-988-6145.

Additional Resources

Austin Area Birding Sites

Audubon Texas

Best Ornamental Grasses for Birds

Birdbaths from Recycled Materials

Gossamer Winged Butterflies by Wizzie Brown

Posted on October 13, 2022 by sheryl.williams

Gossamer winged butterflies, family Lycaenidae, are the second largest family of butterflies after Nymphalidae. There are over 6,000 species in the world with over 100 species in North America.

Characteristics of Gossamer Winged Butterflies

Adults are small, usually under 5 cm, brightly colored, and often metallic. Many species will have tails on the hindwing. The larvae are flattened and slug-like and have a gland that releases a sugary substance similar to honeydew that is used to “bribe” ants for protection. Lycaenindae is split into 7 subfamiles, 3 of which are not found within the U.S.- Aphnaeinae, Portiinae, and Curetinae.

Lycaeinae Family – the Coppers

Family Lycaeinae, the coppers, are found in northern and western U.S., are small in size with a brilliant coppery orange on the upper surface of their wings. These butterflies aren’t seen too much within the state, but can be found in more northern regions.

Theclinae Family – the Hairstreaks

Male hairstreak butterflies will defend territory around their perch areas.

The hairstreaks, family Theclinae, are common throughout the state. They get their name from the “hairlike” lines crossing on under surface of the wings. Most hairstreaks have slender tails on their hindwings. The tails on the hindwing have eyespots, making it look like a false head to help the butterfly evade predators. Tropical species sport bright colors, unlike Texas butterflies which are mostly gray or brown. The patterns of lines and spots on the underside of the wings are used for identification. Hairstreaks are fast flying and tend to dart around erratically. Males will defend territory around their perch areas.

Miletinae Family – the Harvesters

Family Miletinae, the harvesters, has one species, Feniseca tarquinius, found in North America and Texas. The butterfly is orange with brownish-black borders and spots on the upperside of the wings. The underside of the wings are pale orangish-brown with dark brown spots with whitish rings. This butterfly’s caterpillar is carnivorous, feeding on wooly aphids. Adults eat honeydew from aphids as well as fluids from tree sap, carrion, and dung.

Polyommatinae Family – the Blues

The blues, family Polyommatinae, get their name from the blue upperwings of many of the males. Females are more brownish with wide, dark borders and blue towards the body. You can confirm the species identify by the pattern of spots on the underwings. Blues flight is more fluttery, but they are able to dart away when needed. Males often gather at mud puddles and wet sand to get moisture, salts, and amino acids.

For more information or help with identification, contact Wizzie Brown, Texas AgriLife Extension Service Program Specialist at 512.854.9600.

About Wizzie

Wizzie Brown
County Extension Program Specialist – Integrated Pest Management
Email:EBrown@ag.tamu.edu
Wizzie has been with Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Service since 2002 and has been playing with insects since she was a toddler. She is an Extension Program Specialist with the Integrated Pest Management (IPM) program. Wizzie holds a B.S. in entomology from The Ohio State University and a M.S. in entomology from Texas A&M University. The integrated pest management program provides identification, biological and management information to whomever needs help. Wizzie’s research focuses on imported fire ants, including community wide fire ant management. Wizzie also is happy to provide programs to area groups on a variety of arthropod-related topics. You can find insect and other arthropod information on Wizzie’s blog.

Vegetable Gardening in October

Posted on October 3, 2022 by sheryl.williams

Enjoy Cool October Vegetable Gardening

Garlic is a good crop for vegetable gardening in October

California Softneck Garlic is a recommended variety.

For a while there I was afraid the summer heat was never going to end. Thankfully we have dipped below 100 and (be still my beating heart) are having morning temps in the 60’s. That means I’m back out in the garden in earnest and trying to salvage my heat-stressed plantings. You too can take advantage of our cooler weather and plant brassicas, root crops, greens, and garlic.

Try Garlic This Year

Garlic makes a great addition to any garden as long as you pick the right variety for the time of year you plan to harvest. I plant very early varieties to make sure that I get a good harvest in mid May. Usually May is our rainiest month, and in my heavy clay soil, the garlic heads will rot if I don’t get them out of the ground. For the rest of you with better soil, you’ll want to plant cloves this month and harvest no later than June.

Some online garlic sources are starting to sell out, but your local nursery may still have seed garlic in stock. You can plant them in a row, a raised bed, or even in your landscape.

Prepare a planting area in full sun and add 3-4” layer of well-decomposed compost to help improve soil structure. Garlic likes to grow in fertile free-draining conditions. Plant the cloves 1-2 inches deep, 6” apart, with the pointy side up. Water regularly throughout the winter and fertilize every 2-3 weeks with fish emulsion, blood meal, or other high nitrogen fertilizer. Full sun and high fertility are needed to produce large bulbs. Cultivate lightly to eliminate competition from weeds being careful to not damage garlic’s shallow roots.

Two Categories of Garlic

There are two categories of garlic: hardneck and softneck. I’ve had much better luck with softneck garlic because it’s better suited to our mild winters. Varieties to look for include California Early, Lorz, Inchelium Red, Creole Red, Cuban Purple, and Texas Rose. Hardneck is the type that forms a flower stalk or scape as it matures. It grows best in colder climates but you might have some success growing it in Central Texas if you refrigerate it a few weeks before planting. Hardneck varieties include Purple Stripe, Music, Ajo Rojo and Metichi.

There are hundreds of garlic varieties and every year I experiment with at least one new variety. When you find one that works for you, make sure to write down the name for next year.

October Vegetable Garden Checklist

If garlic isn’t your thing, here are some other items in your October vegetable garden checklist:

Fertilizer

Fertilize garden vegetables with a water-soluble fertilizer or fish emulsion every 1-2 weeks. You want to give plants every opportunity to grow before our first freeze hits in late November or early December

Water and Irrigation

It is so dry! Stay on top of soil moisture by using a hand trowel. Dig down to a six-inch depth and use your hand to feel for a soil dampness. A moisture meter is useful if you have one.
Newly planted seeds and transplants will need extra water to get established. Water more frequently until seeds and transplants put out new leaves. Right now that might mean every day.

Planting

Plant garlic any time from mid-October thru early December.
Start planting lettuce and spinach as the temperatures begin to cool; a little shade above the plants will help with establishment if warm weather lingers. Look for nursery transplants or plant seed directly in the garden.
Cool-season herbs planted now, including cilantro, dill, chives, fennel, parsley and sage, will add zest to meals throughout the winter. Plan to let them flower in the spring to attract beneficial insects.
Plant cover crops in fallow areas to improve the condition of the soil. Cool-season options include Elbon rye, clover, Austrian winter peas and hairy vetch. Elbon rye is also a good rotation crop if you have nematode issues. It forms thick root mats that nematodes invade but can’t reproduce in, thus reducing the population in the planting area. Elbon rye is also called “cereal rye” and most independent nurseries in Austin sell it. Make sure you are buying the rye grain, not ryegrass.

Diseases and/or Pests to Look For

Cabbage loopers and other caterpillars can damage fall vegetable crops

Inspect plants regularly for caterpillars that can severely damage leaves of brasssica crops. Row cover or netting can be used to protect plants from moths that lay the eggs.

Keep an eye out for fall pests such as caterpillars, aphids and harlequin bugs. Look for and destroy eggs. Handpick caterpillars. Use a strong spray of water to dislodge aphids from plants.
Use row cover over brassica crops to keep the moths and butterflies from laying eggs on the foliage.

Maintenance

Weeds love fall weather as much as vegetables. Keep them in check by regular pulling, hoeing and mulching. An extra bonus is that many weeds can be chopped up and added as a green to the compost pile.

Harvest

Sweet potatoes are generally harvested this month as their growth begins to slow down. Cut back on irrigation 2-3 weeks before you plan to harvest so soil is dry. Dig carefully to avoid bruising, brush the dirt off and place in a dry, shady location to cure for 5-10 days before storing or eating. Keep pests like squirrels and rats from helping themselves by covering the drying rack with chicken wire and/or netting.
Harvest winter squash and pumpkins when the rind is hard. Use pruners to cut from the vine, leaving 1-2 inches of stem attached. Be careful not to nick or scratch the skin as this could invite decay should you decide to store them.

Additional Resources

Watch the Vegetable Gardening in Central Texas Webinar

Vegetable Seed Sources

Vegetable Gardening in Austin

Plant Rotations, Successions and Intercropping

Sustainable Food Center Farmers Markets

Texas Farmers Markets

Monthly Gardening Calendar for Austin and Central Texas

About Sheryl Williams

Floodwater Mosquitoes by Wizzie Brown

Posted on September 19, 2022 by sheryl.williams

All Abuzz About Mosquitoes

If you’ve been outside lately, you have most likely noticed the giant mosquitoes that seem to want to pick people up and carry them off. With recent weather conditions, floodwater mosquitoes have emerged in large numbers.

Floodwater mosquitoes lay their eggs above the water line in ponds, ditches, pastures, or other places where water collects. The eggs can remain in dry areas and when these areas are flooded the eggs hatch, leading to swarms of hungry mosquitoes. These mosquitoes are larger than mosquitoes we are used to around our homes and can swarm in high numbers.

While floodwater mosquitoes won’t last forever, other mosquitoes called container breeding mosquitoes emerge when floodwaters begin to recede. Many of these species are ones that we are used to seeing around our homes.

How to Reduce Populations

While floodwater mosquitoes species can be difficult to predict and manage, as they can fly up to 5 miles for a blood meal, container breeding mosquito problems can be reduced. Eliminate all sources of standing water. Containers such as watering cans, buckets and bottles can turn into mosquito breeding grounds. Water should be drained from birdbaths, gutters, flowerpots and pet dishes at least once a week. Children’s wading pools should be emptied of water at least once a week and stored so they cannot collect water when not in use. Tree holes should be filled in with sand, mortar, expanding foam, or drained after each rain. Leaky faucets and pipes located outside should be repaired. Fill in low lying areas in the lawn with topsoil or sand or install a French drain.

Areas that cannot be drained, such as ponds or large rain collection systems, can be stocked with mosquito fish that eat mosquito larvae. Dunks can also be used in these areas. Dunks are a small, donut-shaped product that contains Bacillus thuringiensis var. israeliensis. The donut disrupts the life cycle of the mosquito and is non-toxic to humans, amphibians and fish.

When outside, wear loose-fitting, light colored clothing with long sleeves & long pants. Repellants containing active ingredients such as DEET, Picaridin, IR3535, or oil of lemon eucalyptus can be effective to keep mosquitoes from biting when activities cannot be rescheduled.

For more information or help with identification, contact Wizzie Brown, Texas AgriLife Extension Service Program Specialist at 512.854.9600.

About Wizzie

Wizzie Brown

7 Summertime Hacks for Backyard Chickens by Susan Wozniak

Posted on September 8, 2022 by sheryl.williams

Heat Stress in Chickens Can Be Serious

Avoid heat stress in chickens by providing cement watering facilities

A cool water birdbath is a favorite place for hens to hydrate

This summer we have experienced record-high temperatures which causes heat stress in chickens. Although chickens are adaptable to weather changes, they usually perform at their best around 75° Fahrenheit and below, according to research at North Carolina State University Poultry Science Extension. Consistently high summer temperatures causing heat stress in chickens can halt their egg-laying or even lead to death. Although chickens will pant like dogs to dissipate heat, it’s important for the flock owner to provide cooling options for backyard birds.

Help Chickens Beat the Heat with 7 Summertime Hacks

Here are seven ways to help your flock during hot days:

Provide Multiple Water Sources for Hydration. Always have fresh water available for your chickens. The water will help regulate the chickens’ body temperature, keeping them cool. A raised cement bird feeder in the shade provides an insulated source of cool water and is a favorite place for the hens to congregate and stay cool.
Mist Water Around the Coop to Dissipate Heat. Spraying around the coop and the roof can result in evaporative cooling for your chickens. You can also create small pools of water for the chickens to wade in and keep cool.
Use Ice Blocks. Fill a large metal bowl or similar container with water and place it in the freezer. In the afternoon, turn it upside down to cool off the water in a bird bath.
Feed Frozen Treats for Cooling. In addition to layer feed, add fresh or frozen fruit and vegetables. Avoid treats such as corn and scratch, which require longer digestion processes and thus create more body heat.
Offer Shade for Chickens. Install a shade awning from roofing material or shade cloth. If your chickens roam freely make sure there are shady trees, shrubs, or other areas of refuge. Inexpensive “found” items such as leftover weed block fabric placed on top of chicken wire and sprawling potted plants (like bougainvillea) can provide excellent sources of shade. In extreme heat, any small difference helps.
Sprawling plants can provide excellent sources of shade
Pay Close Attention to Broody Hens. Some hens go broody in the summer and simply won’t budge from the nest box in the heat. My solution has been to physically remove the broody hens from the coup a couple of times a day to ensure they take a break and hydrate and eat. They seem to be in a hormonal trance but will respond to my efforts, actively drinking and eating when I step in to provide mid-day relief in the heat.
Use your Phone Alarm to Put the Chickens to Bed at Dusk. Adjusting your alarm to account for longer days and changing dusk times sensitizes us to shifts in lengths of days. Try to let chickens out in the morning at sunrise at a somewhat consistent time. Consistency is key.

Additional Resources

The Small Laying Flock from Texas A&M AgriLife Extension

Managing extreme summer temps with backyard chickens from The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension

Poultry Housing from University of Kentucky Poultry Extension

Hot Weather Management of Poultry from North Carolina State University Poultry Science Extension

Travis County Agriculture and Natural Resources

About Susan Wozniak

Susan holding a chicken

Susan has been a Master Gardener since 2008 and has specialist training in composting and propagation. She is animal-obsessed and has been playing with animals in her backyard since early childhood. Known as “Austin’s dog whisperer,” she is often found training large groups of dogs in Zilker Park. She has trained a pack of six large dogs to protect her free-ranging backyard chicken flock. Susan holds a BBA in Business from Southern Methodist University and a JD from St. Mary’s University.

Chiggers by Wizzie Brown

Posted on August 12, 2022 by sheryl.williams

What Exactly Are Chiggers?

Chiggers are the first stage out of the egg of a particular type of mite. They climb onto people and other animals walking through infested areas, crawl upwards, and wander around the body seeking a good site to settle down and feed. Feeding preference for these mites on humans is in areas where skin is thinnest (behind knees, armpits) or where clothing fits tightly, such as the ankles, waist, and the groin area.

What Causes All That Itching?

Chiggers do not burrow into skin as many people believe, so “smothering” them with nail polish is useless. When chiggers feed, they inject a digestive enzyme that breaks down skin cells. The skin cells then create a feeding tube called a stylostome that the chigger uses to suck up liquified skin cells to eat. Itching and redness is caused when our body reacts to the enzymes injected into our skin as well as the body breaking down the stylostome. Itching typically begins 3-6 hours after being bitten, peaks at 24 hours, and can last up to two weeks. By the time you begin to itch from chiggers, they are usually long gone as they will fall off the body once feeding is completed or can be brushed off by clothing or showering.

How to Avoid Chiggers

The best way to avoid getting chiggers is to avoid infested areas. Since this is not always possible, here are some other things to try:

Wear protective clothing- tightly woven items that fit loosely; including long sleeves & pants; shoes or boots
Tuck pant legs into socks and boots
Use an insect repellent with DEET or picaridin before entering an infested area
Avoid sitting on the ground
Remove & launder clothing ASAP after being in infested areas
Shower/ bathe after being in an infested area; scrub vigorously with a washcloth

How to Treat Infestations

To treat chigger infestations around the home, try the following:

Keep lawn trimmed
Maintain vegetation; do not allow weeds to grow up & keep brush cleared
Target infested areas with residual pesticide sprays

How to Treat Chigger Bites

For chigger bites:

Do not scratch pustules; opening pustule might lead to infection
Oral antihistamines or topical anti-itch creams to relieve itching sensation

For more information or help with identification, contact Wizzie Brown, Texas AgriLife Extension Service Program Specialist at 512.854.9600

Additional Resources

Chiggers – Biology, Defense, Treating Bites

Diagnosing Mysterious Bug Bites

About Wizzie

Wizzie Brown

Horticultural Principles and Practices for Central Texas Registration Opens

Posted on July 25, 2022 by sheryl.williams

Texas Master Gardener Logo

Step One for Acceptance into the 2022 Travis County Master Gardener Program

Have you been thinking about becoming a master gardener or just want to learn more about gardening?

On August 24th at 12:00 pm, the Horticultural Principles and Practices for Central Texas training program with the Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Service begins with a series of virtual, self-paced webinars presented by AgriLife Extension specialists, staff, and Texas Master Gardeners. This virtual course starts on August 24th at 12 pm with an information session explaining how program training will unfold. The cost of the course is $250 with the Texas Master Gardener Handbook or $175 without the Handbook, payable upon registration. Completion of this course is a required prerequisite for those participants who wish to apply to the Travis County Master Gardener Program in December 2022.

Watch the Information Session Here

The 2022 program began with an information session on June 22. You can watch that session here. The recording explains more how the course will run and what to expect in an all-virtual program. Application to become a Travis County Master Gardener is by invitation only once you pass the course final exam.

Register here for the course: https://tamu.estore.flywire.com/products/horticultural-principles-and-practices-for-central-texas-virtual-training

After registering, you will receive a confirmation email containing information about joining Microsoft Teams and participating in the virtual learning course.

Course Description

The Horticultural Principles and Practices for Central Texas course is completely virtual and will consist of two parts: one weekly pre-recorded seminar (self-paced) and one weekly Q&A session (Wednesdays,12 to 1 PM, from Sept 7 to Nov 16). Various Extension personnel are the webinar presenters, and the Q&A sessions are led by Travis County CEA-Hort, Daphne Richards or Travis County Master Gardeners.

Topics are Earth-Kind Principles; Basic Plant Science; Soils; Water & Irrigation; Entomology and Integrated Pest Management; Plant Pathology; Turfgrass; Fruit Crops; and Vegetable Gardening. Other pre-recorded webinar topics are also available to course participants.

The weekly Q&A sessions utilize Microsoft Teams. You can use Teams via web browser, but it functions best by utilizing the Microsoft Teams app. If you are using an Apple iOS device, you must use a Chrome browser to access Teams, or download the Teams app. Microsoft Teams does not function on the Safari browser. Course materials are in a Microsoft Teams class notebook. A Texas Master Gardener Handbook is included in the cost of the $250 registration.

Master Gardener Training

Only those who successfully complete Horticultural Principles and Practices for Central Texas and pass the final exam may apply for the Master Gardener Training program. Master Gardener training is tentatively set to be multi-week and in-person/hands-on training, starting in early 2023. This training will cover additional subject matter and will incur an additional registration fee. Master Gardener training includes the requisite volunteer service to become fully certified TCMG volunteers.

What’s a Master Gardener?

The Travis County Master Gardeners are volunteers for the Travis County AgriLife Extension Service. They assist Extension’s mission to disseminate research-based horticultural and environmental knowledge among the citizens of Central Texas. The Master Gardener training program has a limited number of spaces. Candidates completing the Horticultural Principles and Practices for Central Texas coursework and who submit the best applications will meet with the selection committee for personal interviews. Committee-selected applicants will receive invitations to attend Master Gardener training.

Preferred Skills for Master Gardener Candidates

Successful applicants to the Travis County Master Gardener program have the following list of characteristics, skills, and interests:

Enjoys helping others
Enjoys speaking to groups of people
A willingness to lead projects or events
Is a lifelong learner
Has experience teaching others through volunteer work, community organizations, or professional career
Can successfully work with others in both small and large groups
Has experience with social media either personally or professionally
Is willing to contribute blog posts, articles, photographs, or go on camera in virtual formats like webinars or videos
Loves to garden!

Applications Issued Once Horticultural Principles and Practices for Central Texas Completed

You must complete all the Horticultural Principles and Practices for Central Texas modules and pass the final exam to receive an application,

Please register early to secure a seat in the Horticultural Principles and Practices for Central Texas course. You can register here: https://tamu.estore.flywire.com/products/horticultural-principles-and-practices-for-central-texas-virtual-training

The first class of the course covers the details of the Horticultural Principles and Practices for Central Texas course and is an opportunity to answer your questions.

Training Cost

The total early-bird registration fees for the Horticultural Principles and Practices for Central Texas course are $250 with the Texas Master Gardener Handbook or $175 without the Handbook.

The course cost is payable at registration. The subsequent Travis County Master Gardener training is $150, payable upon acceptance into the program.

Criminal Background Check Required

As a matter of policy, criminal background checks occur on all persons accepted into the Master Gardener training program, and every three years thereafter.

Training Schedule

Horticultural Principles and Practices for Central Texas Course

The Horticultural Principles and Practices for Central Texas course consists of Q&A Lunch and Learn Microsoft Teams meetings each Wednesday at 12:00 pm to 1 pm, from August 24th through November 2nd, and webinar recordings hosted on YouTube. Each week participants will receive an email notice containing links to the lesson and a google form to confirm participation. Recordings are only available for 10 days after the email notice. The Q&A Lunch and Learn Microsoft Teams meetings are hosted by AgriLife Extension staff and are focused on the lesson emailed to participants the week before. Topics are Earth-Kind Principles; Basic Plant Science; Soils; Water & Irrigation; Entomology and Integrated Pest Management; Plant Pathology; Turfgrass; Fruit Crops; and Vegetable Gardening.

Travis County Master Gardener Training

The Travis County Master Gardener training is a combination of in-person workshops and e-learning. The tentative schedule is Wednesdays from 9 am to 12pm, in January and February. Workshops are at the AgriLife Extension office (1600 Smith Rd, Austin, 78721) and other Travis County locations. Participants will receive the exact schedule at registration. Transportation is the responsibility of the participant.

Volunteer Commitment

You will complete a minimum of 50 hours of volunteer service on Extension-approved projects by December 31 , 2023, in order to be certified a Texas Master Gardener.

Certification

Participants earn the title “Texas Master Gardener” after they have completed the training course, passed the final exam, and fulfilled their volunteer commitment. More information about Master Gardeners is available on the Texas Master Gardener Association web page.

What if You Just Want the Horticultural Principles and Practices for Central Texas Course?

Taking the Horticultural Principles and Practices for Central Texas course does not require application to the Travis County Master Gardener program. Sign up for Travis County Horticulture Event Notifications about other garden education opportunities or visit our calendar.

Questions?

Please contact Sheryl Williams if you have questions about the program. sheryl.williams@ag.tamu.edu

Cicada Killer Wasps by Wizzie Brown

Posted on July 11, 2022 by sheryl.williams

What are these giant wasps?!?!?!?!

Large Cicada Killer Wasp

Cicada killer wasps, common this time of year, are native to Texas. They are some of the largest wasps that you can find in Texas, reaching up to 1 ½ inches long and can be somewhat frightening if you see them flying about your lawn.

Cicada killers have a reddish-brown head and thorax, a black and yellow abdomen, and wings with a rusty tinge. Only females are capable of stinging because the stinger is a modified egg laying structure.

Fortunately, female cicada killer wasps are rarely aggressive. Males look similar to females and are territorial. They will buzz near you if you enter their territory, but once you leave the male’s territory they ignore you.

Scary But Beneficial Garden Insect

Hole in ground next to hose is a wasp burrow

This hole is a Cicada Killers nest.

Cicada killers are beneficial insects because they help to control cicada populations. Cicadas, the noisy insects of summer, are stung and paralyzed by female cicada killer wasps. They then carry the paralyzed cicadas back to a burrow that the wasp digs in the ground. The female wasp pulls the cicada into the burrow and tucks it into a side tunnel. Once there are 3-4 cicadas in the side tunnel, an egg deposited with the cicadas and the side tunnel sealed. When the egg hatches, the cicada killer larva eats the cicadas provided. The cicada killer wasp that is developing emerges the following year.

No Control Necessary

Cicada killers usually do not warrant any control methods. If someone is allergic to wasps, you can sprinkle insecticidal dust around the opening of the burrow. Tamp the dust around the opening with your shoe and as the wasps work on cleaning out the entrance to the burrow, they will pick up the dust on their body and eventually die.

Please note that cicada killer wasps are often mistaken for Asian giant hornets (AGH), also referred to as “murder hornets”. AGH have not been found in Texas and have only been located in Washington state within the U.S.

For more information or help with identification, contact Wizzie Brown, Texas AgriLife Extension Service Program Specialist.

About Wizzie

Wizzie Brown